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Here to Climb on Max Rock Climbing
Posted on 6/20/24 at 11:48 pm
Posted on 6/20/24 at 11:48 pm
TLDR A bit (or a lot) of a girl power story but interesting if you are interested in rock climbing.
For the bored:
It is a doc about Sasha DiGiulian a very controversial figure in trad/big wall climbing partly because she has approached rock climbing like Livvy Dunne would have. She saw a lot of pushback by the trad/alpine community with her ascent of a route on the north face of the Eiger when she claimed to be the first woman to free climb it which she probably wasn't. On top of that she had a male climbing partner so she was accused of having a "rope gun" or "Taxi" and Dave McLeod (her partner on the climb) was known for using a clip stick. Trad climbers are very protective of climbing local ethics, style, tactics, and technique. That said every top climber has had some sort of issue like this. In the end, she is a very accomplished climber and her story at the intersection of climbing and SM is an interesting one.
The unnamed climber she had an issue with is Joe Kinder who was not without his own climbing controversies but in this case he got hard cancelled for basically calling her fat online which was the final straw. BTW being fat in the climbing community is like being fat in the cycling community ie anyone over 7% body fat. Which is part of the story.
Just a note Sasha is a true badass climber and the other woman featured in the doc, Lynn Hill, is an absolute legend and would be even if she were a man with the exact same climbing CV.
One other note when she pulled off the first ascent attempt of the volcanic plug that rockfall was nothing crazy. Been on the giving and receiving end plenty of times. It does rattle your shot because they definitely can name and kill but without her partner having some recent PTSD and SM telling her to not push she likely would have. I probably wouldn't have finished many FFAs if I had sane people "looking over my shoulder" and giving me their opinion.
I am also sure she was happy about the doc showing her "climber's toes" after her first surgery.
For the bored:
It is a doc about Sasha DiGiulian a very controversial figure in trad/big wall climbing partly because she has approached rock climbing like Livvy Dunne would have. She saw a lot of pushback by the trad/alpine community with her ascent of a route on the north face of the Eiger when she claimed to be the first woman to free climb it which she probably wasn't. On top of that she had a male climbing partner so she was accused of having a "rope gun" or "Taxi" and Dave McLeod (her partner on the climb) was known for using a clip stick. Trad climbers are very protective of climbing local ethics, style, tactics, and technique. That said every top climber has had some sort of issue like this. In the end, she is a very accomplished climber and her story at the intersection of climbing and SM is an interesting one.
The unnamed climber she had an issue with is Joe Kinder who was not without his own climbing controversies but in this case he got hard cancelled for basically calling her fat online which was the final straw. BTW being fat in the climbing community is like being fat in the cycling community ie anyone over 7% body fat. Which is part of the story.
Just a note Sasha is a true badass climber and the other woman featured in the doc, Lynn Hill, is an absolute legend and would be even if she were a man with the exact same climbing CV.
One other note when she pulled off the first ascent attempt of the volcanic plug that rockfall was nothing crazy. Been on the giving and receiving end plenty of times. It does rattle your shot because they definitely can name and kill but without her partner having some recent PTSD and SM telling her to not push she likely would have. I probably wouldn't have finished many FFAs if I had sane people "looking over my shoulder" and giving me their opinion.
I am also sure she was happy about the doc showing her "climber's toes" after her first surgery.
7
Posted on 6/21/24 at 1:03 am to Obtuse1
Posted on 6/21/24 at 3:10 am to Obtuse1
She looks like Blake lively in those pictures
Posted on 6/21/24 at 1:50 pm to Obtuse1
Posted on 6/21/24 at 1:53 pm to Obtuse1
Posted on 6/21/24 at 5:49 pm to Obtuse1
quote:
climber's toes
I’m out.
Posted on 6/21/24 at 6:43 pm to Obtuse1
Interesting - I will probably check it out as I just started Katie Brown's book. She was Sasha 25 years ago.
She beat the world's best at the X Games at 15, won just about every major event she entered, and then got burnt out due to family and health issues.
Lynn Hill once called her "the best female sport climber in history".
She beat the world's best at the X Games at 15, won just about every major event she entered, and then got burnt out due to family and health issues.
Lynn Hill once called her "the best female sport climber in history".
Posted on 6/21/24 at 8:39 pm to Obtuse1
quote:
she has approached rock climbing like Livvy Dunne would have
Livvy has never claimed anything she hasn't actually done. She's a legitimate college level gymnast. She was never given any place or position on the team she didn't earn through skill. She was on the bench, and never claimed she was anything other than that.
Yes, she also promotes herself.
I'll never understand why people like to shite on her as much as people like to do. She's been nothing but a great ambassador for the school.
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