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Started By
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re: fitting 33s
Posted on 4/24/12 at 2:59 pm to drew225123
Posted on 4/24/12 at 2:59 pm to drew225123
That's what the leveling kit looks like. Literally the same thing that's on you're truck already except the hole with the hex shape is rotated so you can crank it even higher. If you can get high enough with you're stock ones then there's no reason to pay 100$ for the new ones.
And tires shouldn't wear any faster as long as you get an alignment.
1
Posted on 4/24/12 at 5:34 pm to CP3
If you change out the keys make sure you get a heavy duty 2 arm gear puller. I rented one from AAA but broke 2 cheaper ones. You can get the lift blocks with u-bolts from auto zone for cheap.
I put keys on mine and road 80000 miles with no problems.
I put keys on mine and road 80000 miles with no problems.
Posted on 4/24/12 at 5:56 pm to drew225123
just my opinion, but you should be able to fit 33's with minimal torsion bar cranking...especially with stock wheels...it's when you get to aftermarket and they don't give you the factory offset is when you run into rubbing issues...don't crank them all the way(you shouldn't have to)
here is a tip I learned to ease full lock rubbing...
locate the emergency brake cable behind the drivers front fender liner...push back on the fender liner until it touches the E brake cable...now drill two holes...one on either side of where the liner contacts the cable...now get a strong zip tie and feed it from behind toward the wheel and back through behind the liner...insert the end and pull it tight while pushing back on the liner against the E brake cable...
you may experience a light rub when at full lock going up a curb at the most...If you experience this(you shouldn't)...you'll see where the tire is rubbing on the cheap black textured plastic factory air dam...cut out a piece of cardboard and make a 3or4 inch circle and place the circle on the air dam in that corner...trace the rounded edge onto the air dam in pencil and cut a perfectly rounded edge with a razor knife...take your time and do it right.
Note: anytime you crank the t-bars you should get a front end alignment...
this is all just from my experiences with stock GM t-bar suspensions...your results may differ...
On edit: you will not need to lift the back of the truck...the truck will not sit level...it will be arse high...
here is a tip I learned to ease full lock rubbing...
locate the emergency brake cable behind the drivers front fender liner...push back on the fender liner until it touches the E brake cable...now drill two holes...one on either side of where the liner contacts the cable...now get a strong zip tie and feed it from behind toward the wheel and back through behind the liner...insert the end and pull it tight while pushing back on the liner against the E brake cable...
you may experience a light rub when at full lock going up a curb at the most...If you experience this(you shouldn't)...you'll see where the tire is rubbing on the cheap black textured plastic factory air dam...cut out a piece of cardboard and make a 3or4 inch circle and place the circle on the air dam in that corner...trace the rounded edge onto the air dam in pencil and cut a perfectly rounded edge with a razor knife...take your time and do it right.
Note: anytime you crank the t-bars you should get a front end alignment...
this is all just from my experiences with stock GM t-bar suspensions...your results may differ...
On edit: you will not need to lift the back of the truck...the truck will not sit level...it will be arse high...
This post was edited on 4/24/12 at 5:59 pm
Posted on 4/25/12 at 8:01 am to Pepperidge
would i be able to run 33x12.50 or would i have to go with a tire that isnt as wide?
Posted on 4/25/12 at 9:20 am to drew225123
Thats probably gonna be too wide for the stock rim anyway. And they will rub. 12.5" is pretty damn wide.
Posted on 4/25/12 at 9:23 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
My uncle has the same truck as me and is running 33's with stock everything.
Posted on 4/25/12 at 9:25 am to KingRanch
All things stock, fords will clear much bigger tires than chevys
This post was edited on 4/25/12 at 9:26 am
Posted on 4/25/12 at 9:27 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Yep, his is a 2009 4x4 no problems clearing them
Posted on 4/25/12 at 9:29 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
ill prolly go 33x10.5 
Posted on 4/25/12 at 9:30 am to drew225123
Perfect size, but you'll have to get a metric size. 285/75/16 is very close to that size.
Posted on 4/25/12 at 9:42 am to drew225123
Get a 305/70/16 size. 10.5s are pretty narrow. Mine are 10.5 and they're on a jeep.
Posted on 4/25/12 at 10:15 am to PapaPogey
285/75/16 = 32.8x11.2/16
305/70/16 = 32.8x12/16
My buddy ran the 285s on his truck with torsion keys with no problems f/r. His wasnt much higher than stock. You can also look up the exact diameter and width on the tire manufacturers website because the same tire will differ in sizes from different manufacturers
305/70/16 = 32.8x12/16
My buddy ran the 285s on his truck with torsion keys with no problems f/r. His wasnt much higher than stock. You can also look up the exact diameter and width on the tire manufacturers website because the same tire will differ in sizes from different manufacturers
Posted on 4/25/12 at 4:24 pm to Hammertime
I ran 285's for years without maxing the t-bars with no trimming...on the GM classic body style you just have to tie that fender liner back and rarely have to cut the corner off the air dam...my truck is a 2500HD so depending on the difference between the 1500 he may have to crank a little more or may have to trim that air dam...but either way...that is easy to do...
Posted on 4/26/12 at 11:11 am to Pepperidge
also im thinking of tuning what are some good tuners/chips?
Posted on 4/26/12 at 11:02 pm to drew225123
for a gasser?
you wont get much out of it...most seat of the pants feel comes from the tuner disabling torque management persay...
IMO I would go with the the diablo sport predator a CAI and freer flowing exhaust... Diablo has them on sale right now for under $300 shipped with the PC upgrade USB cable...
there was a guy that was selling EFI live programmed ECM's for around $165 shipped...IIRC wait for me performance...you tell him your tire size gearing and any other mods you plan on doing, and what you are looking to accomplish and you get to keep your old ECM to swap back in for warranty reasons...I haven't heard anything about him lately so I would do some research before going that route...
you wont get much out of it...most seat of the pants feel comes from the tuner disabling torque management persay...
IMO I would go with the the diablo sport predator a CAI and freer flowing exhaust... Diablo has them on sale right now for under $300 shipped with the PC upgrade USB cable...
there was a guy that was selling EFI live programmed ECM's for around $165 shipped...IIRC wait for me performance...you tell him your tire size gearing and any other mods you plan on doing, and what you are looking to accomplish and you get to keep your old ECM to swap back in for warranty reasons...I haven't heard anything about him lately so I would do some research before going that route...
Posted on 4/27/12 at 7:25 am to Pepperidge
This still isn't about Zebcos? Outdoor fail.
Posted on 4/27/12 at 8:39 am to Jester
Well one things for sure ...it's sure not a bunch of bad posts about boat wakes 
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