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Posted on 8/11/18 at 12:18 am to feverish
Good thread. Been thinking of doing one back on my property. Need clean water for my cattle and wife wants to build back there. About 3/4-1 mile from the highway and parish water. Weighing options now
Posted on 8/11/18 at 6:43 am to BFIV
Could you describe the holding tank you mention in your previous posts? Is it different from the charge tank? Is it necessary in my setup to add a water softener?
Posted on 8/11/18 at 9:42 am to feverish
I think we are talking about the same thing, but just calling it by a different name. Holding tank is what we call it here in the mountains. You may call it a charge tank. You do realize that you have to have a minimum amount of air pressure in your holding/charge tank, too? You can't just pump the closed system tank full of water. The air pressure in your tank tells your pump pressure switch when to start and when to stop. I also had a pressure pop off valve in case the pump failed to shut off for some reason. If you're not going to drill a new well, adding a water softener is about your only option. Water softener removes lime from your water, but the pellets in the unit also attract and remove iron. Above ground pumps present a different set of problems and circumstances than a submersible pump, but they are a lot easier and cheaper to repair/replace than a submersible pump.
Posted on 8/11/18 at 10:17 am to BFIV
If you get a minute could you link me to what you picture a chlorinator and water softener you have in mind that may work in my setup. I will do my own research from there but just want to make sure I am looking in the right area. There seems to be no short of well products on the market to sort through.
Posted on 8/11/18 at 10:37 am to feverish
Don't know what kind of setup you currently are using, but I like this mechanical chlorinator. Maintenance free, inline, and easy to load with chlorine tablets. LINK (Model 400) Stay away from the electrical pump chlorinators if you can. They're expensive and messy. Lots of softener options. The unit you need really depends on the iron content in your water per gallon and the amount of treated water you use or require. Culligan will be glad to read your iron content for free, but be prepared for a big sales pitch. County agent can probably send a sample off for iron content, too, for free. You really do need to know your iron/gallon content before you install your softener unit. Smaller units can't get rid of all the iron if the content is way high or if you use a lot of water. Hope this helps? LINK
This post was edited on 8/11/18 at 10:47 am
Posted on 8/11/18 at 10:47 am to BFIV
Thanks for your help.
This post was edited on 8/11/18 at 10:49 am
Posted on 8/11/18 at 10:48 am to feverish
quote:
Thanks. Any recommendation on where to start looking at water softeners?
Lowes or Home Depot
Posted on 8/11/18 at 1:23 pm to BFIV
Could you tell me your thoughts on these:
water softener
I'm having trouble figuring out how to tell how many gpm it needs during regeneration phase. We get slightly less than 2.0 gpm into 20 gallon charge tank.
Inline chlorinator
I spoke to my dad and he said we have around 9 ppm iron when we test on average.
water softener
I'm having trouble figuring out how to tell how many gpm it needs during regeneration phase. We get slightly less than 2.0 gpm into 20 gallon charge tank.
Inline chlorinator
I spoke to my dad and he said we have around 9 ppm iron when we test on average.
Posted on 8/11/18 at 1:57 pm to feverish
As you can see from this link, this particular unit is rated for 9 ppm iron, which is what you said you have. You are at borderline removal and this may not be sufficient. Might want to step up to the next level unit. That's what I would do.
LINK (See Specifications tab)
I can't tell from the specs how many gpm this unit requires to recharge. It doesn't provide that information. Ask the tech guy when that link pops up at the bottom right of the linked page? Your pump is producing 2 gpm? Your holding/charge tank holds 20 gallons, so it would take your pump 10 minutes to refill the tank from being empty. If you are only getting 2 gpm discharge from the holding/charge tank, you can increase this amount with a larger discharge pipe, but even then, your gpm going into the softener is restricted to the size of the inlet to the softener unit which is 1". If you are concerned about emptying your tank and not having enough gpm, just get a bigger holding/charge tank. 20 gallons really isn't that much. My old tank was 80 gallons, for instance. When you open the specifications link, a chat window opens up for questions. I would ask them about the minimum gpm required to recharge. The recharge is on a timer and I don't know how many minutes this unit requires to recharge 100%. Read the product reviews and all the FAQ's that are provided. That will help in your research. FWIW, my well tested out at 11 ppm iron.
LINK (See Specifications tab)
quote:
I'm having trouble figuring out how to tell how many gpm it needs during regeneration phase. We get slightly less than 2.0 gpm into 20 gallon charge tank.
I can't tell from the specs how many gpm this unit requires to recharge. It doesn't provide that information. Ask the tech guy when that link pops up at the bottom right of the linked page? Your pump is producing 2 gpm? Your holding/charge tank holds 20 gallons, so it would take your pump 10 minutes to refill the tank from being empty. If you are only getting 2 gpm discharge from the holding/charge tank, you can increase this amount with a larger discharge pipe, but even then, your gpm going into the softener is restricted to the size of the inlet to the softener unit which is 1". If you are concerned about emptying your tank and not having enough gpm, just get a bigger holding/charge tank. 20 gallons really isn't that much. My old tank was 80 gallons, for instance. When you open the specifications link, a chat window opens up for questions. I would ask them about the minimum gpm required to recharge. The recharge is on a timer and I don't know how many minutes this unit requires to recharge 100%. Read the product reviews and all the FAQ's that are provided. That will help in your research. FWIW, my well tested out at 11 ppm iron.
This post was edited on 8/11/18 at 2:04 pm
Posted on 8/11/18 at 2:22 pm to BFIV
Forgot to mention this: Just because you are only getting 2 gallon per minute does NOT necessarily indicate that your well has a small water flow. That is probably the maximum that particular above ground pump can put out. You might want to get a slightly larger pump if 2 gpm is insufficient.
This post was edited on 8/11/18 at 2:23 pm
Posted on 8/11/18 at 2:56 pm to BFIV
I sure do appreciate your help. Have a good one.
Posted on 8/11/18 at 3:34 pm to feverish
Glad to help. Voice of experience here. Whichever softener you install, be sure to operate the bypass valve regularly to keep the iron from locking it up. I installed ball valves on my system in addition to the bypass that came on the unit...just in case. Also, get acquainted with this product: LINK Stinks and is pungent, but it works in removing those orange iron stains and colors from clothes, dishes, washing machine, etc. Bleach won't work nearly as well.
Posted on 8/11/18 at 3:39 pm to BFIV
If y'all are having iron or sulfur issues buy an iron breaker. Don't get a water softener. Order off of Amazon and install yourself. About $600 zero maintenance. Install a sediment filter before the iron breaker.
Posted on 8/11/18 at 8:20 pm to GreasemonkeyJr
This thread is funny to me for some reason. I live about 40 miles south of i10 though. Sorry for bothering yall.
Posted on 8/11/18 at 8:47 pm to feverish
I live in NW Florida. We drilled a well 140' feet deep. They hit into pure sand at 130'. Our water is delicious. We've been drinking it for 10 years and haven't croaked yet.
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