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Started By
Message
HVAC short cycling cause...technicians so far are worthless
Posted on 7/3/24 at 10:40 am
Posted on 7/3/24 at 10:40 am
Split unit, attic and outside. Whenever it gets super hot (attic probably 110 degrees), it starts to short cycle. Runs for a bit, then stops for a while. Technicians are stumped, 10 year old unit but appears in great shape otherwise. Never has heat issues or cooling issues until it gets sweltering outside. This happened last year as well, but we thought we fixed it. In reality, it just got a bit cooler outside and the issue didn't flare up again.
Coils aren't dirty, nothing is frozen, thermostat has been replaced, no drainage issues, etc.
I am calling a new guy to come out, but curious if the folks on here have anything I can tell the guy to check. I really don't feel like buying a new unit when it works great 11/12 months a year.
Can excessive heat cause electrical issues? I would understand if it was running around the clock and froze, but that isn't the case.
Coils aren't dirty, nothing is frozen, thermostat has been replaced, no drainage issues, etc.
I am calling a new guy to come out, but curious if the folks on here have anything I can tell the guy to check. I really don't feel like buying a new unit when it works great 11/12 months a year.
Can excessive heat cause electrical issues? I would understand if it was running around the clock and froze, but that isn't the case.
4
Posted on 7/3/24 at 11:07 am to CatfishJohn
Does it only happen during the day then and not at night?
I'm assuming you've replaced the thermostat?
I'd bet its related to a control board/ electrical issue then.
ETA: What about something to do with the airflow to the unit?
I'd say the one issue with attic units is its hot as shite and no one likes to spend much time trouble shooting them because of that.
I'm assuming you've replaced the thermostat?
I'd bet its related to a control board/ electrical issue then.
ETA: What about something to do with the airflow to the unit?
I'd say the one issue with attic units is its hot as shite and no one likes to spend much time trouble shooting them because of that.
This post was edited on 7/3/24 at 11:10 am
Posted on 7/3/24 at 11:12 am to CatfishJohn
Could it be the same situation I encountered?
When you say no drainage issues, might you possibly have a slow drain that is triggering your secondary float switch to shut the system off.
In this scenario, there will never be water in the pan, so many technicians (apparently), think there is no drainage issue.
When you say no drainage issues, might you possibly have a slow drain that is triggering your secondary float switch to shut the system off.
In this scenario, there will never be water in the pan, so many technicians (apparently), think there is no drainage issue.
This post was edited on 7/3/24 at 11:14 am
Posted on 7/3/24 at 11:24 am to bayoubengals88
This. If you have bad electronics, they'll be bad bad.
I would consider trying to flow some water through the drain and cleaning it out one time. We had this issue a few years ago and it turns out it was a slow drain causing the emergency drain pan to not drain out fast enough.
I would consider trying to flow some water through the drain and cleaning it out one time. We had this issue a few years ago and it turns out it was a slow drain causing the emergency drain pan to not drain out fast enough.
Posted on 7/3/24 at 12:55 pm to BilbeauTBaggins
Thanks guys. I'll check the drainage myself before the guy comes over. I am worried it's bad electronics. Not sure what the fix is for that besides a new unit.
To answer the other questions, it happens at peak heat (2 pm) until around midnight when it starts to cool off in the attic. And I agree, it's a fricking nightmare working in that hot attic so I bet people just rush to judgement with their diagnostic work.
The PVC goes straight down under my house to crawl space and then 90 degrees to the side of my house. I do not see any moisture coming out of that, is that bad? Ground is dry underneath it too. I wonder if that's clogged. A guy cleared it with a shopvac attachment last Summer when we thought he fixed it, maybe he did fix it and it's just clogged again and there is algae/mold in there causing a slow drain.
To answer the other questions, it happens at peak heat (2 pm) until around midnight when it starts to cool off in the attic. And I agree, it's a fricking nightmare working in that hot attic so I bet people just rush to judgement with their diagnostic work.
The PVC goes straight down under my house to crawl space and then 90 degrees to the side of my house. I do not see any moisture coming out of that, is that bad? Ground is dry underneath it too. I wonder if that's clogged. A guy cleared it with a shopvac attachment last Summer when we thought he fixed it, maybe he did fix it and it's just clogged again and there is algae/mold in there causing a slow drain.
This post was edited on 7/3/24 at 1:02 pm
Posted on 7/3/24 at 1:06 pm to CatfishJohn
quote:
The PVC goes straight down under my house to crawl space and then 90 degrees to the side of my house. I do not see any moisture coming out of that, is that bad?
Absolutely that is bad (unless that is your emergency overflow pipe). My coil sounds like a fountain turning off and on this time of year. it is amazing how quickly it goes from AC turning on to full water flow in the drain pipe. it is like a 5 sec delay.
This post was edited on 7/3/24 at 1:07 pm
Posted on 7/3/24 at 1:07 pm to CatfishJohn
Not sure what the fix is for that besides a new unit.
--
Nah.....
I would check that inline float switch suggested above. Then go to thermostat.
--
Nah.....
I would check that inline float switch suggested above. Then go to thermostat.
Posted on 7/3/24 at 1:13 pm to ItzMe1972
New thermostat - didn’t help
Posted on 7/3/24 at 1:20 pm to ItzMe1972
In the meantime, my family will be camping in the cool part of our house with a working HVAC unit.
Posted on 7/3/24 at 1:45 pm to CatfishJohn
You absolutely should be getting serious draining from your condensate line, as said likely gallons a day if you are in the southern USA with high humidity and heat.
This should be very simple for an HVAC tech to find though....
You need to figure out where your condensate is draining? As said you may have an overflow.
Since its in your attic, its easier to do as you said and just take a shop vac to your line under your home and suck it out. See if that starts the draining?
ETA: Boards are replaced all the time BTW over a new system. I've found recently the past 2 years these damn HVAC techs love to just replace units. But a board replacement for me has been $400-800.
This should be very simple for an HVAC tech to find though....
You need to figure out where your condensate is draining? As said you may have an overflow.
Since its in your attic, its easier to do as you said and just take a shop vac to your line under your home and suck it out. See if that starts the draining?
ETA: Boards are replaced all the time BTW over a new system. I've found recently the past 2 years these damn HVAC techs love to just replace units. But a board replacement for me has been $400-800.
This post was edited on 7/3/24 at 1:47 pm
Posted on 7/3/24 at 2:36 pm to baldona
I just got in my crawl space and cut my drain line in half above the elbow and brown sludgy water poured out and it appears to be drip draining now that it's clear. That has to be it. I don’t know what to pour in the attic entrance of the pipe to clear it. I have vinegar concentrate?
This post was edited on 7/3/24 at 2:43 pm
Posted on 7/3/24 at 2:37 pm to CatfishJohn
Once it’s clear I’ll reroute it. The 90 degree elbow angle was more like 80 degrees and I think it’s just built up over time. Needs to be 100 degree elbow angle or more to use gravity.
My AC was cutting off already today and I just turned it off and back on and it's running. We'll see.
My AC was cutting off already today and I just turned it off and back on and it's running. We'll see.
This post was edited on 7/3/24 at 2:48 pm
Posted on 7/3/24 at 2:46 pm to CatfishJohn
Try Bleach once or twice a year to keep it clear.
Posted on 7/3/24 at 3:03 pm to CatfishJohn
quote:
I just got in my crawl space and cut my drain line in half above the elbow and brown sludgy water poured out and it appears to be drip draining now that it's clear. That has to be it. I don’t know what to pour in the attic entrance of the pipe to clear it. I have vinegar concentrate?
Liquid plumber?
You are probably beyond a liquid solution at this point. Getting a shop vac and sucking out the pipes is the easiest solution or finding something you can snake down to clear the lines.
Posted on 7/3/24 at 3:18 pm to notsince98
ShopVac is broken - maybe my excuse to buy another.
I am pissed off at the HVAC company. They said they cleared it a few visits ago and the other guys (who I paid) said that line was fine.
We'll see if it cuts off again, still running. If it is fine now, I'm writing a strongly worded letter to ownership.
ETA:
Side note, I fricking hate getting in my crawl space.
I am pissed off at the HVAC company. They said they cleared it a few visits ago and the other guys (who I paid) said that line was fine.
We'll see if it cuts off again, still running. If it is fine now, I'm writing a strongly worded letter to ownership.
ETA:
Side note, I fricking hate getting in my crawl space.
This post was edited on 7/3/24 at 3:19 pm
Posted on 7/3/24 at 3:28 pm to CatfishJohn
If you're cleaning out your condensate line use vinegar instead of bleach.
But yea I was having similar issues to you weeks ago with almost a brand new system. The "primary" float switch was tripping every now and then probably from poor installation and so what was happening was only during extremely hot/humid afternoons it would run...trip...run...trip.
After multiple technicians and ensuring the condensate drain was clear we just decided to bypass the primary float and use the secondary float in the drip pan to keep the system from tripping over itself constantly.
But yea I was having similar issues to you weeks ago with almost a brand new system. The "primary" float switch was tripping every now and then probably from poor installation and so what was happening was only during extremely hot/humid afternoons it would run...trip...run...trip.
After multiple technicians and ensuring the condensate drain was clear we just decided to bypass the primary float and use the secondary float in the drip pan to keep the system from tripping over itself constantly.
Posted on 7/3/24 at 4:01 pm to CatfishJohn
Hey catfish,
Sounds like you’re getting some good advice.
Use vinegar. Don’t use bleach.
Your drip line should be pouring water during the heat of the day. Gallons.
That 90 is a problem. Can you replace it with a conduit 90? Then when you need to clean it out, you can run an electricians fish reel up the line to the drip pan. I clean out my line twice a year and get that nasty smelly goo. The switches are doing what they are meant to do. You don’t want water accumulating in the attic, that’s for sure.
Once you get that drip line clear, you should be good to go.
Good luck.??
Sounds like you’re getting some good advice.
Use vinegar. Don’t use bleach.
Your drip line should be pouring water during the heat of the day. Gallons.
That 90 is a problem. Can you replace it with a conduit 90? Then when you need to clean it out, you can run an electricians fish reel up the line to the drip pan. I clean out my line twice a year and get that nasty smelly goo. The switches are doing what they are meant to do. You don’t want water accumulating in the attic, that’s for sure.
Once you get that drip line clear, you should be good to go.
Good luck.??
Posted on 7/3/24 at 4:27 pm to CatfishJohn
If the drain is double trapped you'll have problems to no end. Double trapped just means it isn't sloped properly and you have dips in the pipe enough for the water to make an air seal. Only trap should be the p-trap at the indoor unit. Pipe should have constant slope from there.
Posted on 7/3/24 at 6:20 pm to Turnblad85
Update, it’s hot as hades outside and AC hasn’t cut off
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