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re: Fret Shack question about an acoustic (now with pics)
Posted on 4/10/21 at 8:11 am to SidewalkTiger
Posted on 4/10/21 at 8:11 am to SidewalkTiger
From what I've gathered D-14 is Martin-talk for square shouldered 14 fret dreadnought.
quote:
From Acoustic Guitar Forum: I just called Martin's Customer Service, and as we suspected, that just means a 14 fret dreadnought. I asked the woman I spoke to when Martin started using the terminology "D-14 platform," and she said ever since Martin started building 14 fret dreadnoughts, since 1930 or whenever.
I told her I knew that Martin had been building those guitars since then, but told her I'd never heard the company using that "D-14 platform" phrase before. She insisted they've been using it all along.
My guess is that it's a term that they've been using in-house for some time but only recently started putting it in their publicity materials.
1
Posted on 4/10/21 at 8:16 pm to awestruck
So as a slight aside, anybody know anyone in NWLA that can go through this thing and do a proper setup and what not? My regular guy passed away.
I don't know the guitar repair/tech scene in NWLA nowadays, sorry. But if you are willing to make a day trip, I have been known to offer same day service for my out-of-town clients to save them a return trip or return shipping fees. E-mail me at info AT thefretshack DOT com if you'd like more information.
I don't know the guitar repair/tech scene in NWLA nowadays, sorry. But if you are willing to make a day trip, I have been known to offer same day service for my out-of-town clients to save them a return trip or return shipping fees. E-mail me at info AT thefretshack DOT com if you'd like more information.
Posted on 4/10/21 at 8:57 pm to TheFretShack
quote:
I don't know the guitar repair/tech scene in NWLA nowadays, sorry. But if you are willing to make a day trip, I have been known to offer same day service for my out-of-town clients to save them a return trip or return shipping fees. E-mail me at info AT thefretshack DOT com if you'd like more information.
I actually fully intend to try and set something up with you next time I get down that way but between covid last year and a newborn now I'm not sure when that will be. I do have a friend that goes down that way pretty regularly but I always forget to ask him
Posted on 1/31/23 at 9:15 pm to TheFretShack
quote:
I don't know the guitar repair/tech scene in NWLA nowadays, sorry. But if you are willing to make a day trip, I have been known to offer same day service for my out-of-town clients to save them a return trip or return shipping fees. E-mail me at info AT thefretshack DOT com if you'd like more information.
Random question 2 years later, but I have some spots where the binding is starting to separate on the lower portion of the guitar. Is this something easily repairable or am I looking at an absurd repair here?
Posted on 1/31/23 at 9:38 pm to Srbtiger06
It’s probably an MMV
Posted on 2/1/23 at 5:10 am to Srbtiger06
You said it was a 2013?
I have a 2015 000-28. Mine is fine but reading up on them before buying, the mid 2010’s this was a known issue. If grandpa were still here I think that’s a warranty issue. Don’t know how they’d handle a second generation owner? Worth a call.
Not a cheap fix but not “neck reset money” either.
I have a 2015 000-28. Mine is fine but reading up on them before buying, the mid 2010’s this was a known issue. If grandpa were still here I think that’s a warranty issue. Don’t know how they’d handle a second generation owner? Worth a call.
Not a cheap fix but not “neck reset money” either.
Posted on 2/1/23 at 9:50 am to LSU alum wannabe
Whether it's a warranty issue or not, it's a cheap and easy fix if your tech (you don't even need a "luthier") knows what he is doing; and if you don't insist on a full or partial clear nitro respray as part of your repair.
Binding separation in the body "waists" is a recurring problem with Martins and I see this repair at least a half dozen times a year. The binding shrinks with time, the hide glue they use to adhere it to the body fails, and the binding separates from the channel.
I fix this by GENTLY heating the binding and GENTLY stretching it back into the channel without distorting it. Binding tape (with a tack strong enough for the job but not strong enough to take the existing finish off neither the body or the binding) is used to hold the binding in the channel TIGHTLY as the new glue sets.
If the tech uses a carpenter's glue (adheres better than hide glue over time, water soluble), he or she can clean up the job on the back end without needing a full or partial respray.
If you have no access to a tech who can do this, call me during business hours (I'm easy to find via Google) and we can find you help or get you on my shop's waiting list. In the meantime, tape the binding in place with common cream-colored masking tape so it will not break or separate more.
Binding separation in the body "waists" is a recurring problem with Martins and I see this repair at least a half dozen times a year. The binding shrinks with time, the hide glue they use to adhere it to the body fails, and the binding separates from the channel.
I fix this by GENTLY heating the binding and GENTLY stretching it back into the channel without distorting it. Binding tape (with a tack strong enough for the job but not strong enough to take the existing finish off neither the body or the binding) is used to hold the binding in the channel TIGHTLY as the new glue sets.
If the tech uses a carpenter's glue (adheres better than hide glue over time, water soluble), he or she can clean up the job on the back end without needing a full or partial respray.
If you have no access to a tech who can do this, call me during business hours (I'm easy to find via Google) and we can find you help or get you on my shop's waiting list. In the meantime, tape the binding in place with common cream-colored masking tape so it will not break or separate more.
Posted on 2/2/23 at 5:18 am to TheFretShack
quote:
it's a cheap and easy fix if your tech (you don't even need a "luthier") knows what he is doing;
You mean someone on the interweb gave wrong info!!!? Damn it.
Good to know though. I can feel the seam between the binding and wood on my guitars waist. On the treble side. I try to delay it by having it never hit my bare leg and hitting it with dry microfiber whenever it comes out of the case.
Posted on 2/2/23 at 1:21 pm to LSU alum wannabe
And lo and behold ... look at the Martin that walks in right before lunch ...
Here you go ...
Titebond red label, a pot of warm water, a "wet" cloth and a "dry" cloth, and binding tape pre-torn and handy along both bench edges ...
Abracadabra ...
Here you go ...
Titebond red label, a pot of warm water, a "wet" cloth and a "dry" cloth, and binding tape pre-torn and handy along both bench edges ...
Abracadabra ...
Posted on 2/3/23 at 7:55 pm to TheFretShack
Need more pics of your shop LOL.
Decide between things I think I need vs. things a dude who makes a living at it actually uses.
Decide between things I think I need vs. things a dude who makes a living at it actually uses.
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