Domain: tiger-web1.srvr.media3.us User Profile: TheFretShack | TigerDroppings.com
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One is a device called a String Butler which replaces the truss rod cover and acts as a roller string tree making sure each string is going straight into the nut slot.

Gimmicky overkill IMHO, a properly slotted and lubricated nut is the best fix.

A couple of other devices are out there meant to reduce the immense break angle of the Bigsby B50 vibrato. One hooks over the back bar (eliminating the hook string attachment rods) and essentially making it a string through. The other device (BiggsFixx) replaces and elevates the center bar thus reducing the massive amount of tension the B50 creates.

Based not on my experience with Bigsbys but instead with the OEM vibrato units on JMs and Jaguars ... fine tuning the break angle could definitely help alongside that roller bridge. Lube the rollers too!

- I'm also reading a wound G string set helps. Locking tuners, etc.

A wound G's outer wrap wire will create more friction than a plain G so stop reading that author's suggestions.
Locking tuners are great if you don't know how to properly string up or stretch them out in the first place. I recommend learning the latter and THEN investing in locking tuners if you are still having problems.

This is going to turn into a war of wills for me. I love the tone and playability of this guitar and am not going to take no for answer.

Roller bridge (with lubed rollers), decreased bridge break angle, properly cut and lubed nut, good quality tuners, properly strung, properly stretched out.
Use the Bigsby only for subtle vibrato as it was DESIGNED and INTENDED to be used, absolutely no dive bombs, yank ups or aggressive wiggle stickery that is best served by a Floyd or its equivalent.
And you will STILL have periodic tuning problems with a Bigsby. But all of the above will help tremendously!
What file do you recommend to take the sharp edges off of the frets on a MIM telecaster?

You'll need a fret beveling file, a fret end dressing file, and about a dozen stepped grades of abrasives (I use Norton Black Ice automotive wet/dry sandpaper in dry form, followed by various grit micromesh pads).

You'll also need pawn shop and garage sale cheapos on which to get practice reps ... I cannot count how many botched DIY fret work tasks ended up on my bench so I could attempt to undue it. Two of three times, the DIY F-up required a total refret to correct. Absolutely no less than a $400-500 job in today's market when done by a good tech or luthier.

You will see me say this MANY times on this thread ... regardless of the intensity or ease of the task, DIYers should watch a TON of YouTube videos and look for common denominators, everything from techniques to tooling to even the adequacy of DIYers' workspaces.
Considering you're blocking the bridge to make the guitar a hardtail, a locking nut is not necessary. Again, I strongly recommend the Graph Tech part I linked if you are working with or around an existing Floyd nut shelf. If your guitar didn't have a Floyd nut shelf, if it was a conventional nut with a string lock behind it, you need a conventional nut, not the Graph Tech part.
You need a strobe tuner to intonate any guitar. Fortunately, the price of strobe tuners has gone down enough so that the average guitarist can afford one. Peterson is the industry leader for strobes. I recommend the stompbox version, for both price and because it can do double duty as your pedalboard/workstation tuner.

There are tutorials galore on intonating Floyd Rose and FR-license bridges and guitars in general on YouTube. Watch as many as you can and look for common denominators in regard to tips and tricks offered.

I assume for the locking nut replacement you have an Un-Lock Nut by Graph Tech. If you don't, the Graph Tech is THE BEST of its type.
Good luck keeping ANY Bigsby in tune consistently. They look so, so cool, but they function lackluster at best compared to so many other vibrato units. NO ONE specs a Bigsby for performance - they spec one because it looks so badass.

The roller bridge definitely helps. Whether your nut is bone, graphite, TUSQ, whatever, it must be slotted perfectly to minimize friction. A little Chap Stick in the nut slots (lip balm is cheap, readily available and works just as good as graphite or gimmicky nut sauces) would also be advisable. You also need to string the guitar properly and stretch the strings out properly for best results.
Honored that you guys think enough of me to call me out by name on this subject and thread. That being said ...

Many of you may not know, but I am no longer at the helm of The Fret Shack in Baton Rouge. Our pickup company, Carondelet, has grown exponentially since it launched in 2020, so much that I could no longer do both Carondelet and Fret Shack and give each company or its clients their due.

So late last year, I handed off The Fret Shack's workload and oversight to my daughter and my future son-in-law so I could focus solely on Carondelet.

Both Caitlin and Patrick are graduates of Roberto-Venn, the most prestigious luthiery school in North America. Their workshop - still named The Fret Shack at the present - is also in south Baton Rouge, in a facility twice the size of mine. Caitlin and Patrick have 2x the brains and skillsets, 2x the energy, 2x the work space and instrument storage, and most importantly 2x speed in services fulfillment. And they still have me behind the scenes as a senior advisor/tribal elder when needed. Truth be told, our clients have never had it better. You can learn more about Caitlin and Patrick and you can reach them directly via The Fret Shack's website.

I will tell Caitlin and Patrick about this forum and this thread and encourage them to participate as their time allows. I will field a few Qs also as my time allows. Between the buzz tied to Carondelet getting its first ink in Premier Guitar Magazine last month and prep for the upcoming spring guitar shows in Nashville and Dallas, I am spending a lot more time nowadays winding pickups and a lot less time on the Internet!

Fair warning ... there are some questions you guys are going to ask that we will not answer, for the safety of help-seekers and their instruments and for our own liability reasons.
Carvins are good guitars. For so, so many pre-Kiesel, pre-internet years they were a factory-direct catalog exclusive company that bought a lot of ads in guitar magazines to sell the brand. Great for guys who wanted a lot of bang for not a lot of money - their sans-retail-markup guitars back then cost approximately half of what a comp would cost in a brick and mortar storefront. Horrid for resale, however, in that they were priced cheap to begin with. Because of that pricing recipe, plus the absence of high profile well known artists on their roster (the masses will say "Allan who?"), Carvin never really commanded insane prices on the used or vintage market. Again, good for potential value-minded buyers like yourself.

Worth noting ... Carvin historically has loved figured exotic woods, ebony fingerboards and rock maple neck-thru or set-neck construction, which all combines as a recipe for instruments that are bright acoustically. Considering their factory OEM pickups tend to be lackluster at best, be ready to spend a little extra on that upgrade, which will enable you to tailor the plugged in sounds to taste.
Balanced Tension sets ... they tweak the string gauges so that the strings' tautness/floppiness feels more consistent string to string. It's a personal taste thing only you can answer if you need this. No harm in experimenting - strings are cheap.

I can tell you after selling thousands of sets of D'Addario's to thousands of workshop clients, I can only remember two clients/occasions where balanced tension XLs were specifically requested. Safe to say the vast majority of players use standard tension strings, regardless of the manufacturer.

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Standard XLs vs NYXLs ... the latter uses a different alloy that is more durable and that holds their tone and consistency longer over string lifespan compared to XLs. My opinion, however ... NYXLs don't sound as good as common XLs.

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I use the common everyday XLs. They are the best strings on the planet for tone, feel, durability, freshness/packaging, quality control/consistency, price, ease of availability. Again, strings are a personal thing only the individual player can answer for himself. Test for yourself and pick your favorite.
Martin binding separation is a too common problem - most bound Nazareth guitars will suffer from this at some point in life. Caused by a combination of their binding material of choice shrinking over time and their adhesive of choice simultaneously failing over time. Why they refuse to address and correct their shortcoming is beyond senseless.

We (unfortunately) have hundreds of reps fixing this specific issue with Nazareth builds. Go to thefretshack.com to get the phone number with the 917 area code. Call Patrick Welborn at that number. He will set your appointment and have your guitar in the cue within days.
A select few of mine have nicknames based on their cosmetics.

"Ruby" is the intense metalflake version of Dorothy's slippers.



"Barbie," short for BBQ, because the burst reminds me of a Carolina mustard sauce fading into a Memphis or Kansas City ketchup sauce.



The 1960 Fender (and Buick) custom color "burgundy mist" atop a 50s two-tone sunburst and heavily relic'ed is "burgundy pissed."



"Snake"


The MVP bang-for-the-buck MIM Tele upgrade ... if you find the treble icy, pull the modern six-steel-saddles bridge and replace it with a vintage style - and warmer yet still plenty bright sounding - three-brass-barrel bridge. The market's best value performer is a Gotoh replacement that has their intonation-friendly compensated brass barrel saddles.





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Before you consider pickup upgrades, make sure the control plate is CTS potentiometers. If not, I am a big fan of Mojotone's vintage taper 250K short shaft pots for Strats and Teles. You will pay a little more for the "MOJO" stamped pots, but they have a sweeter wiper sweep, a tighter spec tolerance, even the turning friction is perfect, not too stiff, not too loose. Available at mojotone.com and via Sweetwater and Musician's Friend.

Best bets are Yamaha for more traditional at an incredible value price point; or Cordoba for more contemporary (electric guts, cutaway, etc.) at an incredible value price point.

re: City most deserving of RnR HOF?

Posted by TheFretShack on 12/30/25 at 2:43 pm to
Memphis, with absolutely zero question or hesitation.

re: Yamaha FG700S upgrade?

Posted by TheFretShack on 12/15/25 at 6:17 pm to
A/E guts would be the logical upgrade. I recommend the LR Baggs HiFi system. I have sold and installed many of them. They are off the charts for value. The HiFi uses contact transducers attached to the bridge plate with supplied adhesive squares (refer to the photo below). A supplied jig makes installing them very easy. There is a vol and tone control that attached inside the soundhole with the same adhesive tape, and the 9V batt box pouch sticks to the neck block.

It does not change the fundamental sound of the host instrument, it is under $200 street, it's an easy and cheap install via most techs, and it performs absolutely phenomenally. On sale right now at Sweetwater for $172. Do some Google and YT searches for demos and more glowing reviews.


re: On wireless guitar systems

Posted by TheFretShack on 12/11/25 at 9:03 am to
I used Nady in the 1980s, Samson in the 1990s, then Shure in the 2000s. You cannot go wrong with whatever Shure is available in your price range.

Slightly cheaper ... I've heard excellent things about Boss's WL-20 and -50 systems, and Line 6's wireless offerings. Those utilize a "pedal" receiver that double as transmitter chargers from what I've seen, that you house on a pedalboard. SO much smarter than an amp-top console receiver.

If they don't have your price range covered, there are many bug-style wireless systems on Amazon that are stupid cheap in price. One bug is the transmitter, the other plugs straight into the amp or the console.

Considering good technology in general is more affordable than ever, and considering Amazon's bulletproof return policy if that first hypothesis is incorrect ... I may buy one of the bargain bug systems on Amazon to see how well and how conveniently it would do its job around the workshop. One less cable to potentially trip me up is always welcome.

re: Big Muff 2

Posted by TheFretShack on 12/11/25 at 8:42 am to
Shameless show-off cue ... my very modified alpha-omega BMP circuit my very good pal Jim in Virginia built for me. Closest comp is a vintage ram's head, but with some very sweet and useful changes ...

The most viciously sweeping tandem tone and mid controls in history (goes from a VERY scooped V to a VERY tall and peaky lambda).
A "crunch/munch" switch to control volume level as it pertains to saturation, aka bedroom/studio vol vs balls-out live vol.
And a close-up of a hot pink fuzzy boa for visual ooohs.



I so, so desperately need to do a demo vid of this pedal to show it off and call my friend Jim's incredible work out. I've found no better standard or modified BMP variant to date.

re: Vocal Mic Recommendations

Posted by TheFretShack on 12/8/25 at 5:04 pm to
Can never go wrong with a 58 for vocals or a 57 for miking instruments. Value priced, readily available, virtually indestructible.

If you can only afford one mic for both purposes (home recording), get the 57.
Speaking of pedalboards, heads up on a cool Black Friday special on Amazon. I rolled the dice on one of these a couple years ago when I needed a small board for bare necessities stomps.

While the plug-in power (an 18V wall wart) is flimsy, neither it nor any aspect of the product has ever let me down. The board is sturdy, the carry bag is quality, and the onboard power supply is quiet with multiple common voltage offerings. On sale nearly half off right now.

I ordered a second one this morning so I can put fuzz/OD/dist boxes on one board for my Super Reverb, modulation, delay and verb boxes on the other board for my Boogie. Or link both boards together when I'm feeling saucy.









re: Black Sabbath Volume 4

Posted by TheFretShack on 11/11/25 at 5:38 pm to
Vol. 4 and Master of Reality

re: Blackberry Smoke Tonight in BR

Posted by TheFretShack on 10/31/25 at 7:28 pm to
From my social media feeds ...

A mutual friend put Carondelet P-90s on Charlie Starr's radar last year and he's been a friend and a fan ever since.
Charlie invited me to Blackberry Smoke's soundcheck in Baton Rouge yesterday (!), and no pickup winder meets up with modern Southern rock's patron saint of P-90s without something special in tow.
Behold three very custom Carondelet "Hog Ear" dog-ear P-90s, inspired by Charlie and hand-wound by yours truly to Charlie's preferred specs.
Specifically, an overwound (9k DCR) pure vintage Gibson single coil blueprint, featuring two roughcast A4 magnets, vintage inspired metallurgy, and an unpotted coil wound with 1950s spec enamel-insulated wire.
Charlie has two of the Carondelet customs, and he said one goes asap into a project '58 Les Paul Junior he has back home, so it can join the Smoke touring guitarsenal (!).
The third custom "hog ear" resides in my personal '55 Junior, which I brought to soundcheck so Charlie could get a relevant test drive. Raw Android A/V video snippet below. The amp is Charlie's go-to 1960 brownface Fender Concert combo.

Carondelet P-90 test drive with Charlie Starr