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Started By
Message
re: Clay Bar?
Posted on 2/3/26 at 8:06 am to RetiredSaintsLsuFan
Posted on 2/3/26 at 8:06 am to RetiredSaintsLsuFan
Highly recommend you take it to a professional detailer.
If you haven't used a buffer, now is not the time to learn.
If you haven't used a buffer, now is not the time to learn.
0
Posted on 2/4/26 at 8:45 am to UptownJoeBrown
When it warms up I will try some of the suggestions.
Posted on 2/4/26 at 9:52 am to RetiredSaintsLsuFan
I would think the most effective approach is to decontaminate the paint first and then correct the scratches. A clay bar or clay mitt will safely remove the bonded “stuff” on the surface, but it won’t fix scratches.
Once the paint is clean, a fresh bottle of Meguiar’s ScratchX 2.0 used with the drill attachment is the right next step, because GM clear coat is hard and hand application usually isn’t enough to level it. If the scratches are only visible when you look for them, they’re almost certainly in the clear coat and can usually be corrected with ScratchX or, if needed, Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound.
This process gives you the best chance of getting the truck looking clean and presentable before you sell it.
Kit
Ultimate Compound
Once the paint is clean, a fresh bottle of Meguiar’s ScratchX 2.0 used with the drill attachment is the right next step, because GM clear coat is hard and hand application usually isn’t enough to level it. If the scratches are only visible when you look for them, they’re almost certainly in the clear coat and can usually be corrected with ScratchX or, if needed, Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound.
This process gives you the best chance of getting the truck looking clean and presentable before you sell it.
Kit
Ultimate Compound
This post was edited on 2/4/26 at 10:25 am
Posted on 2/4/26 at 10:57 am to Nole Man
Your approach is sound, but I don't think a clay bar is going to pull that substance off the surface.
I'd still try it first, though.
If he's lucky, it will just leave a small ring after he gets it off.
He can then probably buff that out.
I'd still try it first, though.
If he's lucky, it will just leave a small ring after he gets it off.
He can then probably buff that out.
Posted on 2/4/26 at 11:11 am to RetiredSaintsLsuFan
quote:
When it warms up I will try some of the suggestions
That's the other thing! I did some of the above on my wife's (no pics) car and it worked great. Got down here into single digits and you can see some of the compound etc. When it warmed up, it's back to normal!
Posted on 2/4/26 at 11:20 am to RetiredSaintsLsuFan
Lighter fluid.
The kind you put in a Zippo.
The kind you put in a Zippo.
Posted on 2/4/26 at 12:59 pm to RetiredSaintsLsuFan
Starter fluid on a rag and wipe it off.
Posted on 2/4/26 at 1:53 pm to RetiredSaintsLsuFan
Xylene or acetone. Use rubber gloves though, and make sure where you are using it is well ventilated!!!
Posted on 2/4/26 at 2:02 pm to TheOcean
quote:
It's a truck
Unfortunately its 50k/60k+ for a mid trim level F150, Tundra or GM z71. If I'm paying that much you best believe I'm not fricking up my paint.
This post was edited on 2/4/26 at 2:03 pm
Posted on 2/4/26 at 3:28 pm to biohzrd
Acetone on clear coat is not recommended.
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