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CrawDude
| Favorite team: | LSU  |
| Location: | Baton Rouge |
| Biography: | |
| Interests: | Home, Garden, Hunting, Fishing, LSU Sports, Politics |
| Occupation: | |
| Number of Posts: | 5749 |
| Registered on: | 4/5/2019 |
| Online Status: | Not Online |
Recent Posts
Message
quote:
My project this year is goose grass in the backyard.
Goosegrass is easily controlled with pre-emergent herbicides. The seeds germinate around a soil temp of 70 F, so pre-emergent application in April will go a long way in “fixing” that issue.
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quote:.
We plan on going the 28th, havw never been. How much time should we expect to spend at Doug youngs? I will have a plan on what I want to get but also want to spend some time browsing for things I didn’t think about. How often are they sold out of popular plants this time of year? I’d hate to get there and them be out of 3-4 varieties we’re planning on.
You can easily spend a couple hours or more…..
Here is DYN material & price list. LINK. By and large, in my experience, they’ll have just about everything in the catalog - occasionally they be out of things. They’ll give you a catalog and map to help you to locate what you are looking for on the complex but then you are on your own. It’s like a 28 acre facility (?) - you drive around to find what you are looking for and grab it. Once you leave the entry-checkout area you are pretty much on your own in locating what you want. You’ll find some employees around the complex working, but don’t expect them to assist you finding anything unless you speak Spanish……lol…….seriously.
BTW, the Louisiana Nursery Festival in Forest Hill is 3rd weekend in March, many, not all, of the wholesale nursery’s are open to the public that weekend but it’s mega crowded - traffic jams, parking issues. Don’t change your plans and go that weekend, unless you are into that stuff.
As mentioned, Mi Tierra is decent Mexican restaurant on the main Hwy (165?) near DYN, but Leas Restaurant in LeCompete, 10 min off of I-49 at the Forest Hill exit (Ext 66?) is another good country style restaurant - very famous for their pies.
quote:
Am I safe to apply a pre emergent now? Is Scott's basic WeedEx safe?
Yes to both
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What about a fertilizer? When and recs?
Follow Auburn U (AL) Coop Extension Service lawn maintenance guidelines for south AL in regards to fertilization, etc. LINK
If a 4-1-2 (N-P-K) ratio fertilizer confuses you, that would be something like a 24-6-12 lawn fertilizer or pretty close to that formulation. For the amount of fertilizer to apply equal to 1 pound of nitrogen (N) per 1000 sq ft, divide 100 by the percentage N, so for the example above 100 divided by 24, apply 4 pounds of 24-6-12 per 1000 sq ft of lawn.
Yes, Sam Stokes has lots of smaller annual & herbaceous perennials in smaller pots/trays - minimal amount of woody shrubs, but nice potted fruit shrubs-trees. Doug Young has some of that as well up near the entry area where you check out (purchase) the plants but then acres and acres of potted woody shrubs and herbaceous perennials. Obviously go to both, they are within 10 min of each other.
I usually pick up plants from both when I go.
I usually pick up plants from both when I go.
Photos always help but sounds like “large patch” fungal disease (formerly called brown patch). Large Patch - LSU AgCenter
Treat with fungicide, azoxystrobin (Scott’s Disease EX) or propiconazole (different trade names, spray or granular) are two of the better ones, follow fungicide label directions. Retail garden centers and even the big box stores will carry them.
Treat with fungicide, azoxystrobin (Scott’s Disease EX) or propiconazole (different trade names, spray or granular) are two of the better ones, follow fungicide label directions. Retail garden centers and even the big box stores will carry them.
In my small town, “April 1966, Roy T. Mejia brutally murdered Barbara Verret (Roy’s common law wife) and her three children—Robert Jr., Brenda Ann, and Lucie Ann—in their Berwick, Louisiana home. Mejia shot the children and disposed of all four bodies in a nearby parish. He was convicted and late died in prison.” Happened directly behind my grandparents house - it was a very bloody scene. I was a kid and remember having nightmares for weeks.
Another interesting one from 100 years ago in Morgan City. A short book was written by a ULL professor “Ada and the Doc”. “This short book recounts the history of one of Louisiana's most notorious (though now mostly forgotten) murder cases, the July 1, 1927 killing of James LeBoeuf in St. Mary Parish, a crime which culminated in the hanging of Ada Bonner LeBoeuf, the victim's wife (paramour of Dr. Dreher), and Dr. Thomas E. Dreher, his former close friend, in Franklin on February 1, 1929.”
Of interest to me - my great-grandfather was on the jury that convicted Ada and Dr. Dreher of murder. Ada was the last woman hanged for murder in Louisiana. One of my sister’s best friend’s great grandfather was Dr. Dreher, and my sister wasn’t sure if she should tell her friend that our great grandfather was on the jury that convicted her great grandfather of murder. None of us knew about this and the facts until adults and the book was published.
Another interesting one from 100 years ago in Morgan City. A short book was written by a ULL professor “Ada and the Doc”. “This short book recounts the history of one of Louisiana's most notorious (though now mostly forgotten) murder cases, the July 1, 1927 killing of James LeBoeuf in St. Mary Parish, a crime which culminated in the hanging of Ada Bonner LeBoeuf, the victim's wife (paramour of Dr. Dreher), and Dr. Thomas E. Dreher, his former close friend, in Franklin on February 1, 1929.”
Of interest to me - my great-grandfather was on the jury that convicted Ada and Dr. Dreher of murder. Ada was the last woman hanged for murder in Louisiana. One of my sister’s best friend’s great grandfather was Dr. Dreher, and my sister wasn’t sure if she should tell her friend that our great grandfather was on the jury that convicted her great grandfather of murder. None of us knew about this and the facts until adults and the book was published.
quote:
Ok so in general - what should I do? I’ve got about an acre and a half sided halfway from the house out. The rest is just kind of grown in. Obviously have clovers, but crab grass and some other weeds, not trying to have it, pristine, but look as best as possible. Thanks in advance
Without repeating, Sixthand Barone has provided a good synopsis on how to move forward. Pre-emergent herbicide, applied in late winter (like now) and in fall can be a major game changer in suppressing most, not all, annual spring and winter weeds and significantly reduce, not eliminate, your use of post-emergent herbicides.
After you have killed or suppressed many-most of your weeds, start a lawn fertilization program. You did not state what type of lawn grass you have - do you know, is it a mixture of different lawn grasses? Lawn fertilization recommendations- type, amount, frequency - is based on the type of lawn grass you have. Cutting lawn grass at an appropriate height - it differs for each lawn grass type - is important for lawn health, and a heathy lawn grass is a good weed suppressant.
Patience and persistence are the operative words in lawn weed control.
A university recommended lawn fertilization program for your lawn grass type (there are differences in recommended nitrogen application rates and application frequency) should provide you adequate lawn nitrogen input.
I would caution you not to use excessive nitrogen application on the lawn to “control” clover or other weeds that thrive under nitrogen deficient conditions otherwise you’ll be back on this board asking how to control lawn diseases and other lawn health issues.
I would caution you not to use excessive nitrogen application on the lawn to “control” clover or other weeds that thrive under nitrogen deficient conditions otherwise you’ll be back on this board asking how to control lawn diseases and other lawn health issues.
One of the most effective and convenient products I use is an imidacloprid (insecticide) drench. You mix & pour the product at the base of the shrub, it’s uptaken by the roots and distributed systemically throughout the shrub. Offers pretty much season control of the most harmful azalea insects. As a bonus some companies, Fertilome and Bonide come to mind, sell a imidacloprid drench product that also contains a systemic fungicide, usually referred as 2 in 1 product.
Most retail garden centers, and perhaps the big box stores (HD or Lowe’s) carry those products. I prefer these products to spraying for time and convenience.
As mentioned, also fertilize with a general purpose acidic shrub fertilizer- the next 2 or 3 weeks, would be a good time to apply. Fertilome has a granular azalea fertlizer that contains imidachloprid insecticide - you might consider that product. A cup or 2 of elemental sulfur spread around the root zone of each azalea will help increase soil acidity (reduce soil pH) if you have non-acidic soil.
Most retail garden centers, and perhaps the big box stores (HD or Lowe’s) carry those products. I prefer these products to spraying for time and convenience.
As mentioned, also fertilize with a general purpose acidic shrub fertilizer- the next 2 or 3 weeks, would be a good time to apply. Fertilome has a granular azalea fertlizer that contains imidachloprid insecticide - you might consider that product. A cup or 2 of elemental sulfur spread around the root zone of each azalea will help increase soil acidity (reduce soil pH) if you have non-acidic soil.
Atrazine is a systemic herbicide (works slow), as opposed to a contact herbicide (works quick). Systemics are absorbed and translocated through the vascular system and to the roots - takes time. Bottom line, with the somewhat cool weather, could take 2 to 3 weeks to show good results. Growth of clover should cease in a week or so, but death takes longer. Don’t be in rush to re-spray.
BTW, many of the good post-emergent herbicides recommended on this board are systemic.
BTW, many of the good post-emergent herbicides recommended on this board are systemic.
re: Pre emergent
Posted by CrawDude on 2/24/26 at 11:52 am to BlackenedOut
quote:
Just laid zoysia about 3 weeks ago, post cold snap. Coming out of dormancy, no issues there. What would you recommend for a fertilizer/weed schedule over say the next 6 months?
Not a zoysia “expert”, I’ll defer to other on the board in that regards, particularly ronk who is a professional and does this for a living but I’ll make these comments.
1. Newly laid sod - no pre-emergent herbicide until the sod-lawn becomes established, usually 4-6 months, and that information will be clearly stated on any pre-emergent herbicide label, so always read the label.
2. If needed, you will be able to use post-emergent herbicides fairly soon, after the sod is rooted in, say a couple months, but again read the herbicide label. Avoid Weed & Feed products (herbicides & fertilizer mixed together) - they are convenience products- best to implement weed control & fertilization as two separate activities.
3. Fertilization - most sod comes pre-fertilized, and believe Zoysia requires less nitrogen fertllizer than St Augustine or Bermudagrass. 1/2 to 1 pound of Nitrogen (N) “slow release” lawn fertilizer per 1000 sq ft per application, perhaps starting mid-April, and second application 3-4 months later - mid July. Do not exceed 2 lbs of N per 1000 soft per year (growing season). The application rate might be dependent on the Zoysia cultivar you have - I’ll defer to others on this.
4. As I read from others a reel mower is likely best for Zoysia? But most important, cut it at the appropriate height for grass health, 1 to 2 inches depending on the cultivar, but again it’s cultivar dependent so you might want to share that info, or even start a new thread. You’ll get many good recommendations/suggestions from those with Zoysia lawns.
Zoysiagrass - LSU AgCenter
re: Need a new A/C unit--Bryant v. Weather King ? Have both quoted
Posted by CrawDude on 2/24/26 at 11:12 am to southofyou
quote:
Believe the Weathering has a better parts warranty.
Most HVAC manufacturers provide a 10 year parts warranty (occasionally 12 years on some of their higher end models) when the warranty is registered with the HVAC manufacturer. Usually the installing company will register the warranty for you and send you the paperwork but you need to ask. Otherwise, as the another poster mentioned, if not registered with the manufacturer the parts warranty defaults to 5 years (except in CA & Canada).
Labor warranty by the installer, 1 or 2 years is most common. Some offer a 10 year labor warranty but that going to be built into the price structure - that is, you are going to pay more.
As often stated on here, and on professional HVAC forums that I follow, the quality and attention to detail by the HVAC installing company is more important than the name (manufacturer) of the equipment.
re: Need a new A/C unit--Bryant v. Weather King ? Have both quoted
Posted by CrawDude on 2/23/26 at 9:16 pm to southofyou
Bryant is a Carrier product, and WeatherKing a Rheem product. Both are comparable in performance and reliability assuming a proper install.
Do both units have the same 10-year parts warranty provided by the manufacturer and labor warranty by the installing company? If different, consider the unit with the better warranty.
Pretty good pricing…..
Do both units have the same 10-year parts warranty provided by the manufacturer and labor warranty by the installing company? If different, consider the unit with the better warranty.
Pretty good pricing…..
No - most late winter-spring weed seeds have not germinated yet, but best to apply and water in ASAP.
re: Pre-emergent in South Louisiana
Posted by CrawDude on 2/21/26 at 2:10 pm to Randall Savauge
quote:
Granular, right. No need to water in liquid (generic prodiamine “old yeller” as I call it).
Both granular and liquid (spray) pre-emergents need to be watered in - the active ingredient needs to be moved to the soil surface where the weed seeds are located to “kill” the weed seed embryos when they germinate. Even with a spray formulation of pre-emergent most-much of the compound will adhere to the grass blades and not make contact with the soil unless watered in. This is stated on the herbicide label - unfortunately you have to read all the “fine print”. :lol:
Prodiamine 65WDG Label - read the last paragraph, page 7
quote:
would it be to late to do it this coming week?
It’s not too late to apply pre-emergent herbicide. The sooner the better, but it must be watered in (rain or sprinklers) soon after.
re: Pre-emergent in South Louisiana
Posted by CrawDude on 2/21/26 at 1:04 pm to Royalfishing
quote:
I like to lay down some prodiamine spray on Vday in Lafayette as it tends to nail as a postemergent, some left over winter weeds and sticker weed I missed earlier,
?? Did you mis-word this? Prodiamine is a pre-emergent, it has no post-emergent efficacy on winter weeds.
Atrazine, Trimec, Fertilome Weed Free Zone, MSM Turf, Celsius, …..your choice…. Not too early, and not too late ….treat-control weeds when present…..
re: Atrazine spray versus granules? How close to flower bed?
Posted by CrawDude on 2/20/26 at 9:36 am to Seven Costanza
Well spray would provide you better control & accuracy along the edge of landscape beds, but in the lawn proper, your choice-preference. I would spray up to the border of the landscape bed unless you have shrubs planted close to the border, in which case I’d back away a bit. Read the product label.
I have three Asian persimmons cultivars Fuyu, Saijo and Maejawa-Jiro. Fuyu is very popular and can be found just about anywhere.
The two you mentioned are grafted cultivars on American persimmon rootstock, so they do not need a second cultivar for cross pollination - just like citrus.
The two varieties you mentioned I gather are astringent varieties, meaning they have to be soft-ripe before you can eat the fruit. Non-astringent cultivars, like Fuyu, you can eat when ripe, both hard or soft.
Though the best time to plant trees is in the Deep South is Nov-March, It would be best to plant ASAP, but if they are potted plants (not bare root) you can plant them year round though you have less margin for error if you plant them during summer (more stress on the plant).
The two you mentioned are grafted cultivars on American persimmon rootstock, so they do not need a second cultivar for cross pollination - just like citrus.
The two varieties you mentioned I gather are astringent varieties, meaning they have to be soft-ripe before you can eat the fruit. Non-astringent cultivars, like Fuyu, you can eat when ripe, both hard or soft.
Though the best time to plant trees is in the Deep South is Nov-March, It would be best to plant ASAP, but if they are potted plants (not bare root) you can plant them year round though you have less margin for error if you plant them during summer (more stress on the plant).
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