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Concrete weight rating question
Posted on 5/4/23 at 8:36 pm
Posted on 5/4/23 at 8:36 pm
So looking to pour concrete for pur driveway.
I own a big rig, weighs 25k lbs and I park it at home.
Anyone have experience with concrete and can help to make sure I get it right for the weight.
Was thinking instead of the normal 4" I would have it 6" thickness.
It will be poured over an existing gravel driveway that's been there for 23 years
I own a big rig, weighs 25k lbs and I park it at home.
Anyone have experience with concrete and can help to make sure I get it right for the weight.
Was thinking instead of the normal 4" I would have it 6" thickness.
It will be poured over an existing gravel driveway that's been there for 23 years
This post was edited on 5/4/23 at 8:37 pm
7
Posted on 5/4/23 at 8:41 pm to TigerDat
I did 6” on mine. It’s well worth it. I don’t have a rig, but I’ve had dump trucks and earth moving equipment on it several times and it hasn’t cracked.
Posted on 5/4/23 at 8:43 pm to TigerDat
Just park it on the street across from your neighbors driveway.
Eta:
thought this was the OT.
Eta:
thought this was the OT.
This post was edited on 5/4/23 at 8:44 pm
Posted on 5/4/23 at 9:16 pm to Nump
quote:
I did 6” on mine. It’s well worth it. I don’t have a rig, but I’ve had dump trucks and earth moving equipment on it several times and it hasn’t cracked
Good to know. Did they use wire mesh, rebar or the fiber in the mix?
Posted on 5/4/23 at 10:32 pm to TigerDat
Go with at least 6” and put joints every 15ft if you have a long stretch.
You don’t necessarily “need” rebar but it’ll hold cracks tighter than wire mesh placed incorrectly right on the ground. If you use a mesh make sure they set it at least midway. And yes you can pour directly over your gravel driveway.
You don’t necessarily “need” rebar but it’ll hold cracks tighter than wire mesh placed incorrectly right on the ground. If you use a mesh make sure they set it at least midway. And yes you can pour directly over your gravel driveway.
Posted on 5/5/23 at 2:00 am to Adam4848
Another thing to consider.... is the strength of the concrete mix. A 2500 lb is often used for driveways. I would go with 3000 lb or even 3500 lb mix for your driveway.
A 2x6 board is really only 5.25". Is this thickness ok for you? If you really want 6", be sure to discuss this with your concrete guy.
Another important factor in having good strong concrete is it should "cure" slowly. BY this, I mean that the concrete should dry out slowly, so it needs to be watered several time a day for the first 5 to 7 days to keep it from drying out too fast. If it were July and 90+ F, I would water it longer.
The first day, be sure to use a light sprinkle while watering to not damage the surface. You really can not put too much water to keep it wet. If the ground is dry, wetting it down good before pouring the concrete will help slow down the "drying" process. Dry ground [gravel] will "pull" the moisture out of the concrete.
Another thing to check or watch out for.... Is your existing driveway all level and not having a "high" spots. If you have an area that sticks up a little higher than the rest, it needs to be graded lower so that the concrete will all be the same thickness. You would not want one part of the new concrete to thinner than the rest.
Where the driveway connects to the road, are you planning to flare out the concrete to make turning in a little easier? The turning in process, puts a little extra stress on the concrete, so be sure you have the desired thickness in that area.
Good luck with this project.
A 2x6 board is really only 5.25". Is this thickness ok for you? If you really want 6", be sure to discuss this with your concrete guy.
Another important factor in having good strong concrete is it should "cure" slowly. BY this, I mean that the concrete should dry out slowly, so it needs to be watered several time a day for the first 5 to 7 days to keep it from drying out too fast. If it were July and 90+ F, I would water it longer.
The first day, be sure to use a light sprinkle while watering to not damage the surface. You really can not put too much water to keep it wet. If the ground is dry, wetting it down good before pouring the concrete will help slow down the "drying" process. Dry ground [gravel] will "pull" the moisture out of the concrete.
Another thing to check or watch out for.... Is your existing driveway all level and not having a "high" spots. If you have an area that sticks up a little higher than the rest, it needs to be graded lower so that the concrete will all be the same thickness. You would not want one part of the new concrete to thinner than the rest.
Where the driveway connects to the road, are you planning to flare out the concrete to make turning in a little easier? The turning in process, puts a little extra stress on the concrete, so be sure you have the desired thickness in that area.
Good luck with this project.
This post was edited on 5/5/23 at 2:27 am
Posted on 5/5/23 at 6:07 am to TigerDat
6+ fiber & very compacted soil
Posted on 5/5/23 at 7:53 am to TigerDat
I used fiber for reinforcement in my 200’ long driveway and there is not one single crack 7 years later. I don’t have a heavy vehicle but others such as delivery trucks have been on it.
The fiber reinforced concrete cost only $5/ cu. yd more which is offset by not paying for wire mesh. Wire mesh is improperly used anyway since it’s just laying on the ground instead of being at mid-depth of the concrete.
The fiber reinforced concrete cost only $5/ cu. yd more which is offset by not paying for wire mesh. Wire mesh is improperly used anyway since it’s just laying on the ground instead of being at mid-depth of the concrete.
This post was edited on 5/5/23 at 7:56 am
Posted on 5/5/23 at 12:13 pm to gumbeaux
quote:
Wire mesh is improperly used anyway since it’s just laying on the ground instead of being at mid-depth of the concrete.
Any good concrete finisher will use a wire hook to reach down to the wire mesh and pull it up to get it off the ground.
Posted on 5/6/23 at 5:50 am to gerald65
Why not use plastic chairs. They are cheap and be placed every foot or so.
Posted on 5/6/23 at 7:10 am to gerald65
quote:
A 2x6 board is really only 5.25".
Weird, all the ones in front of me are really 5.5 inches.
Posted on 5/6/23 at 12:49 pm to gerald65
quote:
Where the driveway connects to the road, are you planning to flare out the concrete to make turning in a little easier?
No need for this project, it will be a straight shot no turning on or off but good points and info in your posts thanks
This post was edited on 5/6/23 at 12:50 pm
Posted on 5/6/23 at 12:51 pm to gumbeaux
quote:
used fiber for reinforcement in my 200’ long driveway and there is not one single crack 7 years later
This is great to hear. Fiber was always gonna be used just wondered of adding mesh or rebar would strengthen it more.
Posted on 5/6/23 at 11:15 pm to TigerDat
Fiber is good with this application. Expansion joints are your friend. If you bring new concrete against an existing slab, use the asphalt fiber expansion joints.
If in BTR, let me know.
If in BTR, let me know.
Posted on 5/7/23 at 8:16 am to TigerDat
These concrete threads always make me laugh. Theres always a lot of good information, bad information, and thing people say to do and they have no clue why.
Guys, concrete cracks...for your reinforcement to "start working" it has to crack. Fiber reinforcement, helps keep these cracks small enough you can't see. But I doesn't have the capacity for heavier loads. Hence the increase from WWM to actual rebar. And reinforcement in a slab on grade the reinforcement should be and middle level to the top 3rd. This is because the cracking, due to vehicle loads,should occur then the load is applied and the slab between the load/wheel points wants to bend upward, which engages the reinforcement. But it has to crack to do this.
Other cracking occurs due to temperature, and crack control joints make the cracking happen at those joints where you can't see the. As you already cut a nice straight joint there. I could talk forever so I'll let you ingest this.
Guys, concrete cracks...for your reinforcement to "start working" it has to crack. Fiber reinforcement, helps keep these cracks small enough you can't see. But I doesn't have the capacity for heavier loads. Hence the increase from WWM to actual rebar. And reinforcement in a slab on grade the reinforcement should be and middle level to the top 3rd. This is because the cracking, due to vehicle loads,should occur then the load is applied and the slab between the load/wheel points wants to bend upward, which engages the reinforcement. But it has to crack to do this.
Other cracking occurs due to temperature, and crack control joints make the cracking happen at those joints where you can't see the. As you already cut a nice straight joint there. I could talk forever so I'll let you ingest this.
Posted on 5/7/23 at 2:50 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
Guys, concrete cracks.
Well yes. I'm not looking to eliminate all cracks just looking for best longevity of the slab for the vehicle I will have passing on it
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