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which way to orient garden beds?

Posted on 5/19/23 at 6:40 pm
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
47453 posts
Posted on 5/19/23 at 6:40 pm
hopefully this isn’t a stupid question but here goes...

I building 3 8x24 raised garden beds in an open sunny spot. Which way should I orient them relative to sunrise/sunset? My guess is orient short sides facing East/west?
Posted by PillageUrVillage
Mordor
Member since Mar 2011
15848 posts
Posted on 5/19/23 at 7:31 pm to
How close together will they be? If the beds are far apart it probably won’t matter as much. If they’re pretty close together I’d run them longways east to west. That way you won’t have taller plants shading shorter plants at certain times of the day.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
47453 posts
Posted on 5/19/23 at 9:36 pm to
thx that’s what I thought

6’ apart or so is what I was thinking
Posted by East Coast Band
Member since Nov 2010
66950 posts
Posted on 5/20/23 at 5:10 am to
Shadows are short in the growing season.
I don't think orientation of properly spaced short and tall is going to make too much difference
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
19820 posts
Posted on 5/20/23 at 5:14 am to
quote:

Shadows are short in the growing season.
I don't think orientation of properly spaced short and tall is going to make too much difference



Tell that to plants growing next to okra or corn that often get to be 7+ ft. tall or cucumbers and green beans on 6 ft. plus trellises.
Posted by rooster108bm
Member since Nov 2010
3183 posts
Posted on 5/20/23 at 11:36 am to
It's not a stupid question.

Traditional thought was rows run north to south for max sun exposure but I run my rows on prevailing wind direction. That happens to be ssw-nne for my area.

In the deep south humidity invites disease and airflow helps with that.

Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
47453 posts
Posted on 5/20/23 at 11:55 am to
prevailing wind here is SE flow in the summer
geometrically relative to my trees north/south would fit better

maybe I’ll split the difference

lumber just got dropped off I may start on them tomorrow
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
47453 posts
Posted on 5/21/23 at 12:50 pm to
it begins

Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
47453 posts
Posted on 5/26/23 at 12:24 pm to
it continues
2x12’s are heavy

Posted by Tear It Up
The Deadening
Member since May 2005
13905 posts
Posted on 5/27/23 at 3:18 pm to
I would have them east to west length wise and plant your plants from taller to shorter from north to south (tallest on north side)
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
47453 posts
Posted on 5/27/23 at 4:24 pm to
that’s what I’m gonna do.
makes it easier to run my irrigation run that way too

will be interesting to see how much it sucks moving those 16’ 2x12 over there though
Posted by Philzilla
Member since Nov 2011
2185 posts
Posted on 5/28/23 at 5:07 pm to
quote:

8x24

What now?
Posted by AutoYes_Clown
Baton Rouge, LA
Member since Oct 2012
5349 posts
Posted on 5/28/23 at 9:44 pm to
Got dang, thats an expensive garden.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
47453 posts
Posted on 5/28/23 at 9:48 pm to
not too bad so far
it will just be the lumber and the fill
about 1500 all in but it should last me as long as I feel like fooling with it

plus I’m covering up 600sf of freeloading lawn grass
Posted by meeple
Carcassonne
Member since May 2011
10950 posts
Posted on 5/28/23 at 9:59 pm to
I built a few 2x12 (8 and 12’ length) raised beds and shortly after I finished most of the boards bowed axially (so it looks like a U when looking at the cut ends). Not sure why, I used treated lumber. Frustrated after spending that much on the wood. I wonder if I should have dried them out first like you’re doing.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
47453 posts
Posted on 5/28/23 at 10:03 pm to
they are getting a good drying in the sun for sure but it takes a long time for treated wood to dry. I’m going to stake the boards every 2’ with #7 rebar on the outside to keep them from bowing too bad. There’s only so much you can do, some bowing is inevitable
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
47453 posts
Posted on 6/1/23 at 6:36 pm to
1/3 of the way there



Switched to 6” Simpson timber screws and it’s making all the difference on these heavy boards as far as keeping it stitched together during assembly
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
47453 posts
Posted on 6/7/23 at 10:58 am to
done



working up a DIY irrigation system now with 1/2” PVC that will be a grid over each of the beds
Posted by luvdoc
"Please Ignore Our Yelp Reviews"
Member since May 2005
1133 posts
Posted on 6/7/23 at 7:14 pm to
That looks great! What are you going to use for fill? From where?

Is that your new tractor in the pic? Happy so far?

Did any of the grafts make it at all? The one that I grafted to the potted seedling?

At least that has been added to your skill set. In retrospect, grafting much lower on the trunks would have been more prudent. In cold weather, some mulch or even an old blanket wrapped around the base assures that some of the Scion survives, and regrowth is usually pretty quick due to the maturity of the surviving root stock

Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
47453 posts
Posted on 6/10/23 at 4:12 pm to
there’s a farmer in Loranger I’ve been talking to that sells composted manure and amended soils so I’ll probably get it from him, I need 40 cy. I’m going to layer over the grass with cardboard and as much hay as I can get my hands on then the soil

Love the tractor, wish I’d done it sooner. It’s perfect for what I need.

No none of the grafts made it. I had two going strong till that last freeze. Oh well. Let’s try again sometime

Irrigation to the beds is in. I ran 1/2” PVC from a riser with a hose bibb connection so I didn’t have to trench so far and get into tree roots.







now I just need to caulk the inside of the bed frames and get the fill
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