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Message
re: looking to get into cycling -- bike advice
Posted on 10/28/16 at 9:54 am to lsucoonass
Posted on 10/28/16 at 9:54 am to lsucoonass
Yea I knew him at LSU, not surprised he didn't make the cut for the military 
1
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:01 am to King Teal
I haven't lived in Louisiana in close to two decades, baw. And didn't go to LSU. Pass that good shite
Also RA'd for obvious alter
Also RA'd for obvious alter
This post was edited on 10/28/16 at 10:03 am
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:04 am to TheOcean
Good to hear.
When I was a triathlete I went way tf into the country for my rides and I rode at the arse crack of dawn.
When I was a triathlete I went way tf into the country for my rides and I rode at the arse crack of dawn.
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:06 am to Tigeralum2008
A mountain bike and a road bike are two totally different things. Do not get a mountain bike if you are looking to do long distance pavement riding. That's just stupid advice. That's like someone asking how to get started in skiing, then you recommend a snowboard. It's completely different.
1) Don't be afraid of a road bike, but at the same time, if you aren't going to ride on the road, don't blow money on one either. They can get expensive.
2) Look for group rides around you. I only stay on some very close, low traffic roads when I ride by myself. But there are groups that I'll ride with and you can venture out more. I did 52 miles last Sunday on roads I had never been on that were absolutely awesome. You feel much safer riding with other people. You are more easily seen. And typically, those serious groups make sure you are following the rules. They don't want you pissing off cars. We don't want cars to be more pissed at us than they already are. It's a good way to learn the ropes. Around me there is a ride on Saturday mornings with everything from teens on mountain bikes, to racers riding 25 mph. Hell, the guy who owns a local bike shop has his 10 year old riding. Everyone is welcome.
3) Go to shops ASAP if you are serious about buying. They are clearing out the previous year models. Probably willing to give more of a deal on higher end bikes that you wouldn't be looking for, but who knows. I just picked up a new roadie for over 1k off sticker because it was last years model.
4)Fit is important, but at the same time, it's easily adjustable and it will change as you get more serious.
Get a bike shop to show you around a few bikes, then see if you can find one on craigslist. I know I sold my first bike 2 years after I bought it for $400. It was a $1200 bike new (I got it on sale for $850). So just because you see $1200 online, doesn't mean you can't find it affordably another way.
1) Don't be afraid of a road bike, but at the same time, if you aren't going to ride on the road, don't blow money on one either. They can get expensive.
2) Look for group rides around you. I only stay on some very close, low traffic roads when I ride by myself. But there are groups that I'll ride with and you can venture out more. I did 52 miles last Sunday on roads I had never been on that were absolutely awesome. You feel much safer riding with other people. You are more easily seen. And typically, those serious groups make sure you are following the rules. They don't want you pissing off cars. We don't want cars to be more pissed at us than they already are
. It's a good way to learn the ropes. Around me there is a ride on Saturday mornings with everything from teens on mountain bikes, to racers riding 25 mph. Hell, the guy who owns a local bike shop has his 10 year old riding. Everyone is welcome. 3) Go to shops ASAP if you are serious about buying. They are clearing out the previous year models. Probably willing to give more of a deal on higher end bikes that you wouldn't be looking for, but who knows. I just picked up a new roadie for over 1k off sticker because it was last years model.
4)Fit is important, but at the same time, it's easily adjustable and it will change as you get more serious.
Get a bike shop to show you around a few bikes, then see if you can find one on craigslist. I know I sold my first bike 2 years after I bought it for $400. It was a $1200 bike new (I got it on sale for $850). So just because you see $1200 online, doesn't mean you can't find it affordably another way.
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:13 am to TheOcean
If you're looking for a road bike, the good news is that there are so many good road bikes out there that you can hardly go wrong on your first one. So don't worry. You're going to get a bike that you're not going to hate. I practically guarantee it.
You can spend as much as you want on a bike, pretty much. In my opinion, the returns diminish (for the AVERAGE rider) past the $2,000 price point. Racers will fight over every single ounce and every bit of frame geometry, so they will pay more for smaller differences than you will see among lower priced bikes.
You absolutely can get a really good bike for under $1,000 to $600. It just depends on what type of frame you want, and what components you're looking for. You probably know by now that carbon frames are stiffer and lighter. You will really move on a carbon frame, but you will feel the bumps in the road pretty good. Metal frames are heavier but (generally) more comfortable. Your tires are only going to be 23 mm wide. Don't worry. You will be able to handle it. It's scary at first, but more stable than it looks. I roll with Continental GatorSkin Hardshell tires. Most racers will tell you that tire is a little slow, but I like its durability. I never flat with them.
Components... I really only have experience with Shimano components (derailleurs, pedals, cranks, etc.). You will see that the different brands have different "groupsets." This indicates a hierarchy of parts, that they consider their lowest quality to highest quality. With Shimano parts, the hierarchy goes like this: (low to high) - Claris, Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace. I've used components in the 105 to Ultegra range. No complaints. They work great. Something you should be aware of is that last year's Ultegra parts are often this year's 105 parts. And last year's 105 parts are often this year's Tiagra parts. So you're not getting crap here. Even on the low end, you're getting components that were top of the line just ten years ago.
Sometimes you will see a bike listed like this: 2012 Cannondale Slice 105 or 2014 Specialized Allez SRAM Red. The "105" Refers to Shimano's 105 groupset. "SRAM Red" refers to SRAM's Red groupset. That's how you know what kind of components are on the bike.
If it were me, starting out... something like the Cannondale Synapse Hybrid with 105 components would be appropriate.
LINK
Aluminum hybrid frame is still lightweight but comfortable. Good groupset.
Good luck!
You can spend as much as you want on a bike, pretty much. In my opinion, the returns diminish (for the AVERAGE rider) past the $2,000 price point. Racers will fight over every single ounce and every bit of frame geometry, so they will pay more for smaller differences than you will see among lower priced bikes.
You absolutely can get a really good bike for under $1,000 to $600. It just depends on what type of frame you want, and what components you're looking for. You probably know by now that carbon frames are stiffer and lighter. You will really move on a carbon frame, but you will feel the bumps in the road pretty good. Metal frames are heavier but (generally) more comfortable. Your tires are only going to be 23 mm wide. Don't worry. You will be able to handle it. It's scary at first, but more stable than it looks. I roll with Continental GatorSkin Hardshell tires. Most racers will tell you that tire is a little slow, but I like its durability. I never flat with them.
Components... I really only have experience with Shimano components (derailleurs, pedals, cranks, etc.). You will see that the different brands have different "groupsets." This indicates a hierarchy of parts, that they consider their lowest quality to highest quality. With Shimano parts, the hierarchy goes like this: (low to high) - Claris, Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace. I've used components in the 105 to Ultegra range. No complaints. They work great. Something you should be aware of is that last year's Ultegra parts are often this year's 105 parts. And last year's 105 parts are often this year's Tiagra parts. So you're not getting crap here. Even on the low end, you're getting components that were top of the line just ten years ago.
Sometimes you will see a bike listed like this: 2012 Cannondale Slice 105 or 2014 Specialized Allez SRAM Red. The "105" Refers to Shimano's 105 groupset. "SRAM Red" refers to SRAM's Red groupset. That's how you know what kind of components are on the bike.
If it were me, starting out... something like the Cannondale Synapse Hybrid with 105 components would be appropriate.
LINK
Aluminum hybrid frame is still lightweight but comfortable. Good groupset.
Good luck!
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:13 am to TheOcean
You can ride a mountain bike on the road. You can't ride a road bike on the mountain. 
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:15 am to KG6
quote:
3) Go to shops ASAP if you are serious about buying. They are clearing out the previous year models. Probably willing to give more of a deal on higher end bikes that you wouldn't be looking for, but who knows. I just picked up a new roadie for over 1k off sticker because it was last years model.
This is great advice. FYI... new models roll in around February. That's a great month to buy a retiring year's bike.
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:15 am to KG6
Any recs on bikes to look for on CL? I plan on riding on long paved trails here in town. Are road bikes mainly for streets?
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:19 am to TheOcean
A road bike will be fine on any paved road.
They are the lightest and fastest. If you are going on paths that may not be paved as well think about getting a hybrid. If you want to trail ride get a mountain bike.
They are the lightest and fastest. If you are going on paths that may not be paved as well think about getting a hybrid. If you want to trail ride get a mountain bike.
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:19 am to TheOcean
quote:
Are road bikes mainly for streets?
Road bikes are ONLY for streets.
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:21 am to RJL2
quote:
If you are going on paths that may not be paved as well think about getting a hybrid.
This. Road bikes are for good pavement only. You're going to have a bad time on a road bike if you ride on crappy pavement. You can't ride a road bike on unpaved trails. I mean, sure, you CAN. But you shouldn't.
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:21 am to TheOcean
if you want to seriously get into biking i suggest moving to Mandeville.....only place in LA where bikers are accepted by motorists. otherwise be prepared to get dirty looks, honked at and a few middle fingers
ETA:
NM then lol
ETA:
quote:
I haven't lived in Louisiana in close to two decades,
NM then lol
This post was edited on 10/28/16 at 10:29 am
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:23 am to TheOcean
gateway drug, ocean.
you buy bike..then you need:
- helmet
- spare tubes
- simple bike multitool to get you home if something breaks
- tire levers to get your tire off and back on when you flat 10 miles from your house
- CO2 or tiny pump
- gloves to keep your palms from going numb after a couple hours in the saddle
- one or more water bottles
- shorts with padded chamois or your arse will hate you after a few rides
- you'll start to feel silly wearing lycra shorts and an old tshirt so then you'll end up buying a lyrca top as well because the pockets on the back rock for storing food & your phone safely
- good pair of sunglasses to keep your eyes from drying out and the bugs and dirt out of them
- if you buy clipless pedals, get ready to spend AT MINIMUM another $100 on proper shoes and cleats
- bike pump for your house, you can't keep road bike tires at full pressure for longer than a few days and a mini/frame pump isn't going to do the job.
- if you ride in humid areas mostly, you'll need some type of headband to keep the sweat from rolling down into your eyes and burning
- phone mount or GPS-enabled computer for the bike because who wants to ride and not see how well they've done?
- strava subscription ok, the free version works just as well.
- front and rear lights if you ever plan to ride at dusk or dawn
- arm warmers if you ride in the fall because nothing is more miserable than an early morning ride and freezing arms
just be prepared to invest at least as much in accessories as the bike itself.
you buy bike..then you need:
- helmet
- spare tubes
- simple bike multitool to get you home if something breaks
- tire levers to get your tire off and back on when you flat 10 miles from your house
- CO2 or tiny pump
- gloves to keep your palms from going numb after a couple hours in the saddle
- one or more water bottles
- shorts with padded chamois or your arse will hate you after a few rides
- you'll start to feel silly wearing lycra shorts and an old tshirt so then you'll end up buying a lyrca top as well because the pockets on the back rock for storing food & your phone safely
- good pair of sunglasses to keep your eyes from drying out and the bugs and dirt out of them
- if you buy clipless pedals, get ready to spend AT MINIMUM another $100 on proper shoes and cleats
- bike pump for your house, you can't keep road bike tires at full pressure for longer than a few days and a mini/frame pump isn't going to do the job.
- if you ride in humid areas mostly, you'll need some type of headband to keep the sweat from rolling down into your eyes and burning
- phone mount or GPS-enabled computer for the bike because who wants to ride and not see how well they've done?
- strava subscription
ok, the free version works just as well. - front and rear lights if you ever plan to ride at dusk or dawn
- arm warmers if you ride in the fall because nothing is more miserable than an early morning ride and freezing arms
just be prepared to invest at least as much in accessories as the bike itself.
This post was edited on 10/28/16 at 10:29 am
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:25 am to RJL2
quote:
A road bike will be fine on any paved road.
They are the lightest and fastest.
And the gayest
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:25 am to SpqrTiger
Spot on with the groupset advice. I have had Dura Ace, 105, and Tiagra. To be honest, the only noticeable difference was that Tiagra is only 10 speed compared to 11, and it got out of tune quickly (not terribly hard to re-tune). There's a pretty big weight difference when you look at all of the subcomponents, but not really a major function difference. I wouldn't even worry about getting 105 or better unless you have the money and expect to get serious. Plenty of guys who can drop me riding 105, it's a serious groupset. Plus, that's when bikes get expensive. You can stay sub 1k if you stay below 105.
I don't agree with metal frames being more comfortable though. My carbon frames are much more comfortable than my original aluminum bike. they are stiffer side to side to transfer power, but they are usually laid up to be compliant vertically to give you some comfort from the bumps. Even my aero tri bike with it's harsh tube shapes was more comfy than my aluminum bike.
Cyclocross bikes may be a good thing to look at. YOu can throw some road slicks on and it's not much different than a road bike (slight geometry differences that a newbie wouldn't even notice). Or, you can put on some 32 inch nobby tires and hit dirt/gravel roads or even some tame trails.
I don't agree with metal frames being more comfortable though. My carbon frames are much more comfortable than my original aluminum bike. they are stiffer side to side to transfer power, but they are usually laid up to be compliant vertically to give you some comfort from the bumps. Even my aero tri bike with it's harsh tube shapes was more comfy than my aluminum bike.
Cyclocross bikes may be a good thing to look at. YOu can throw some road slicks on and it's not much different than a road bike (slight geometry differences that a newbie wouldn't even notice). Or, you can put on some 32 inch nobby tires and hit dirt/gravel roads or even some tame trails.
This post was edited on 10/28/16 at 10:29 am
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:26 am to SpqrTiger
What bike do you recommend for paved trails with no hills?
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:31 am to Hot Carl
quote:
And the gayest
Did a cyclist bang your old lady?
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:32 am to TheOcean
Specialized Allez is an aluminum bike that has everything from entry level, to legit top of the line race components. I've never had one, but it's probably a good buy if you can find it in your price range. And if you got serious and threw Dura Ace components on there, you'd have a damned fine bike. A great crit bike. You put 25mm tires on that (which many people are switching to anyway), and you can hit up the roughest pavement there is. Road bikes can handle more than people think, just not soft stuff. Look up the Paris Roubaix race and see what those guys are riding on.
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:34 am to TheOcean
quote:
Any recs on bikes to look for on CL? I plan on riding on long paved trails here in town. Are road bikes mainly for streets?
Sounds like a hybrid is your best bet.
If you want something light that you can push long distances, the Cannondale Quick line would be a fine choice. The Quick CX leans more toward offroad riding.
If you want something smooth that you can enjoy riding around that wasn't designed so much for endurance riding, consider the Jamis Coda.
The Cannondale is aluminum, so lighter. The Jamis is steel, so smoother.
Posted on 10/28/16 at 10:35 am to KG6
quote:
an aluminum bike
NO NO NO NO NO NO NO
buy a used carbon over AL.
trust me. AL will jar every bone in your body and you'll hate the bike and it will end up hanging from the garage ceiling until you sell it.
test ride both an AL and a carbon frame and the difference is like night-and-day. you can ride a carbon bike for hours and not feel as fatigued as an AL bike will make you feel like shite in 30 minutes.
if you have an AL bike you HAVE to buy padded gloves and shorts (your bike contact points are palms, butt and feet) or you will lose feeling in your palms after a couple of rides.
This post was edited on 10/28/16 at 10:36 am
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