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Paging Fret Shack... The Luthier's Workshop Thread
Posted on 3/1/26 at 3:00 pm
Posted on 3/1/26 at 3:00 pm
So many of us have gear questions while others have knowledge and experience, I thought I'd start a thread as a catch-all for questions and answers about instruments and their modifications and repair.
My current question; actually two questions... I recently bought a Gretsch G5232T Electromatic Double Jet with a Bigsby and I love it. It's going to fill a nice niche between my Strat and Jazzmaster as a guitar that can play both surf and rock. The only problem is the damn thing won't stay in tune. It continually goes sharp. Open the case to play... it's sharp. Play three songs... it gone sharp. Hell I tuned it up, went to the can laying it on the couch, and came back to find it was sharp completely unplayed.
I read up on probable causes and solutions (including asking my buddy who's a long-time Gretsch player) and had my luthier friend flare the back side of the nut out a little and add some grease to no avail; still sharp. Then we took the guitar back out to his home work station and he swapped out the bridge for a spare he had in his parts bin. Yep, it still went sharp. Anyway he thinks it has to be in the bridge or the nut, so I ordered a returnable roller bridge as the first mod to try to solve the problem.
My two questions are: 1) Would you suspect the bridge first? The stock bridge visibly moved when the tremolo bar was pushed. The replacement bridge moved slightly less. 2) I'm wanting to buy a TUSQ Graph Tech nut, but am having a difficult time determine the right size without a caliper to take exact measurements. The listed nut width is 1.6875 inches or 4.28625 centimeters.
Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. TIA.
My current question; actually two questions... I recently bought a Gretsch G5232T Electromatic Double Jet with a Bigsby and I love it. It's going to fill a nice niche between my Strat and Jazzmaster as a guitar that can play both surf and rock. The only problem is the damn thing won't stay in tune. It continually goes sharp. Open the case to play... it's sharp. Play three songs... it gone sharp. Hell I tuned it up, went to the can laying it on the couch, and came back to find it was sharp completely unplayed.
I read up on probable causes and solutions (including asking my buddy who's a long-time Gretsch player) and had my luthier friend flare the back side of the nut out a little and add some grease to no avail; still sharp. Then we took the guitar back out to his home work station and he swapped out the bridge for a spare he had in his parts bin. Yep, it still went sharp. Anyway he thinks it has to be in the bridge or the nut, so I ordered a returnable roller bridge as the first mod to try to solve the problem.
My two questions are: 1) Would you suspect the bridge first? The stock bridge visibly moved when the tremolo bar was pushed. The replacement bridge moved slightly less. 2) I'm wanting to buy a TUSQ Graph Tech nut, but am having a difficult time determine the right size without a caliper to take exact measurements. The listed nut width is 1.6875 inches or 4.28625 centimeters.
Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. TIA.
4
Posted on 3/1/26 at 4:54 pm to Mizz-SEC
@Fretshack or anyone- Trying my first set up on a 87 BC Rich(Class Axe era) Warlock Platinum Series Korean with bendmaster bridge, which I intend to block. Added locking tuners and graphite nut. Previous owner removed the nut lock thing on the headstock. Don't know where to position the saddles to begin intonation after I set the truss rod and action... 24 frets, Scale Length: 24.75 inches--Any and all tips welcomed from all! TIA
Eta-great idea Mizz! Thanks!
Eta-great idea Mizz! Thanks!
This post was edited on 3/1/26 at 6:09 pm
Posted on 3/1/26 at 7:03 pm to Mizz-SEC
Honored that you guys think enough of me to call me out by name on this subject and thread. That being said ...
Many of you may not know, but I am no longer at the helm of The Fret Shack in Baton Rouge. Our pickup company, Carondelet, has grown exponentially since it launched in 2020, so much that I could no longer do both Carondelet and Fret Shack and give each company or its clients their due.
So late last year, I handed off The Fret Shack's workload and oversight to my daughter and my future son-in-law so I could focus solely on Carondelet.
Both Caitlin and Patrick are graduates of Roberto-Venn, the most prestigious luthiery school in North America. Their workshop - still named The Fret Shack at the present - is also in south Baton Rouge, in a facility twice the size of mine. Caitlin and Patrick have 2x the brains and skillsets, 2x the energy, 2x the work space and instrument storage, and most importantly 2x speed in services fulfillment. And they still have me behind the scenes as a senior advisor/tribal elder when needed. Truth be told, our clients have never had it better. You can learn more about Caitlin and Patrick and you can reach them directly via The Fret Shack's website.
I will tell Caitlin and Patrick about this forum and this thread and encourage them to participate as their time allows. I will field a few Qs also as my time allows. Between the buzz tied to Carondelet getting its first ink in Premier Guitar Magazine last month and prep for the upcoming spring guitar shows in Nashville and Dallas, I am spending a lot more time nowadays winding pickups and a lot less time on the Internet!
Fair warning ... there are some questions you guys are going to ask that we will not answer, for the safety of help-seekers and their instruments and for our own liability reasons.
Many of you may not know, but I am no longer at the helm of The Fret Shack in Baton Rouge. Our pickup company, Carondelet, has grown exponentially since it launched in 2020, so much that I could no longer do both Carondelet and Fret Shack and give each company or its clients their due.
So late last year, I handed off The Fret Shack's workload and oversight to my daughter and my future son-in-law so I could focus solely on Carondelet.
Both Caitlin and Patrick are graduates of Roberto-Venn, the most prestigious luthiery school in North America. Their workshop - still named The Fret Shack at the present - is also in south Baton Rouge, in a facility twice the size of mine. Caitlin and Patrick have 2x the brains and skillsets, 2x the energy, 2x the work space and instrument storage, and most importantly 2x speed in services fulfillment. And they still have me behind the scenes as a senior advisor/tribal elder when needed. Truth be told, our clients have never had it better. You can learn more about Caitlin and Patrick and you can reach them directly via The Fret Shack's website.
I will tell Caitlin and Patrick about this forum and this thread and encourage them to participate as their time allows. I will field a few Qs also as my time allows. Between the buzz tied to Carondelet getting its first ink in Premier Guitar Magazine last month and prep for the upcoming spring guitar shows in Nashville and Dallas, I am spending a lot more time nowadays winding pickups and a lot less time on the Internet!
Fair warning ... there are some questions you guys are going to ask that we will not answer, for the safety of help-seekers and their instruments and for our own liability reasons.
Posted on 3/1/26 at 7:09 pm to Mizz-SEC
Good luck keeping ANY Bigsby in tune consistently. They look so, so cool, but they function lackluster at best compared to so many other vibrato units. NO ONE specs a Bigsby for performance - they spec one because it looks so badass.
The roller bridge definitely helps. Whether your nut is bone, graphite, TUSQ, whatever, it must be slotted perfectly to minimize friction. A little Chap Stick in the nut slots (lip balm is cheap, readily available and works just as good as graphite or gimmicky nut sauces) would also be advisable. You also need to string the guitar properly and stretch the strings out properly for best results.
The roller bridge definitely helps. Whether your nut is bone, graphite, TUSQ, whatever, it must be slotted perfectly to minimize friction. A little Chap Stick in the nut slots (lip balm is cheap, readily available and works just as good as graphite or gimmicky nut sauces) would also be advisable. You also need to string the guitar properly and stretch the strings out properly for best results.
Posted on 3/1/26 at 7:18 pm to beauxgy
You need a strobe tuner to intonate any guitar. Fortunately, the price of strobe tuners has gone down enough so that the average guitarist can afford one. Peterson is the industry leader for strobes. I recommend the stompbox version, for both price and because it can do double duty as your pedalboard/workstation tuner.
There are tutorials galore on intonating Floyd Rose and FR-license bridges and guitars in general on YouTube. Watch as many as you can and look for common denominators in regard to tips and tricks offered.
I assume for the locking nut replacement you have an Un-Lock Nut by Graph Tech. If you don't, the Graph Tech is THE BEST of its type.
There are tutorials galore on intonating Floyd Rose and FR-license bridges and guitars in general on YouTube. Watch as many as you can and look for common denominators in regard to tips and tricks offered.
I assume for the locking nut replacement you have an Un-Lock Nut by Graph Tech. If you don't, the Graph Tech is THE BEST of its type.
Posted on 3/1/26 at 8:40 pm to TheFretShack
Thanks for the reply and suggestions, Fretshack. I know you're a busy man and your time is valuable..
One last question: How important is the nut lock thingie? It was missing when I bought it and previous owner added a different truss rod cover than the original, with no provision for that piece, and it covers the original drilled holes which are still there on the headstock. The nut I bought was graphtech tusq direct fit to replace a crappy plastic one and it did improve tuning stability as did blocking the tremolo bridge. Probably going to sell this one when this experiment is over. Would rather not buy another nut if adding back that piece and original truss rod cover if it will get it somewhat to playable status so I can pass it on to someone else. I've already got two 1989 Korean Epiphone "lawsuit" Strats (S-310) that are my #1 & #2. Thanks again and glad to see you are keeping the business in the family and Carondelet doing well.
One last question: How important is the nut lock thingie? It was missing when I bought it and previous owner added a different truss rod cover than the original, with no provision for that piece, and it covers the original drilled holes which are still there on the headstock. The nut I bought was graphtech tusq direct fit to replace a crappy plastic one and it did improve tuning stability as did blocking the tremolo bridge. Probably going to sell this one when this experiment is over. Would rather not buy another nut if adding back that piece and original truss rod cover if it will get it somewhat to playable status so I can pass it on to someone else. I've already got two 1989 Korean Epiphone "lawsuit" Strats (S-310) that are my #1 & #2. Thanks again and glad to see you are keeping the business in the family and Carondelet doing well.
This post was edited on 3/1/26 at 8:58 pm
Posted on 3/1/26 at 9:45 pm to beauxgy
Considering you're blocking the bridge to make the guitar a hardtail, a locking nut is not necessary. Again, I strongly recommend the Graph Tech part I linked if you are working with or around an existing Floyd nut shelf. If your guitar didn't have a Floyd nut shelf, if it was a conventional nut with a string lock behind it, you need a conventional nut, not the Graph Tech part.
Posted on 3/1/26 at 10:01 pm to TheFretShack
Thanks again for all the helpful info!
Very much appreciated.
Very much appreciated.
Posted on 3/2/26 at 3:45 am to beauxgy
quote:
Don't know where to position the saddles to begin intonation after I set the truss rod and action
The saddle height will be based on the neck radius. See how flat or curved the fretboard is. Middle saddles may need to go higher if it’s more of a vintage curved radius to get the action where you want it. The back and forth of the saddles is to get the intonation correct.
This post was edited on 3/2/26 at 3:47 am
Posted on 3/2/26 at 9:16 am to TheFretShack
quote:
Good luck keeping ANY Bigsby in tune consistently. They look so, so cool, but they function lackluster at best compared to so many other vibrato units. NO ONE specs a Bigsby for performance - they spec one because it looks so badass.
The roller bridge definitely helps. Whether your nut is bone, graphite, TUSQ, whatever, it must be slotted perfectly to minimize friction. A little Chap Stick in the nut slots (lip balm is cheap, readily available and works just as good as graphite or gimmicky nut sauces) would also be advisable. You also need to string the guitar properly and stretch the strings out properly for best results.
Thanks for the reply and the success with your businesses.
When you have the time I'd like to get your opinion on a couple of other items / things...
- One is a device called a String Butler which replaces the truss rod cover and acts as a roller string tree making sure each string is going straight into the nut slot.
- A couple of other devices are out there meant to reduce the immense break angle of the Bigsby B50 vibrato. One hooks over the back bar (eliminating the hook string attachment rods) and essentially making it a string through. The other device (BiggsFixx) replaces and elevates the center bar thus reducing the massive amount of tension the B50 creates.
- I'm also reading a wound G string set helps. Locking tuners, etc.
We tried back angle cutting the stock nut to no avail.
This is going to turn into a war of wills for me. I love the tone and playability of this guitar and am not going to take no for answer. Any additional thoughts you have would be appreciated.
Posted on 3/2/26 at 9:22 am to Mizz-SEC
I guess I would have one more question...
Do Gretsch's typically like the extra string tension of heavy sets? My Jazzmaster definitely does. It came with Fender 10s and at my first string change I went with 9s and immediately switched back. That said, this Gretsch came with 10s and my slightly arthritic hands said to try 9s and it helped with fretting with no perceived loss of playabilty on the songs we did. Both 10s and 9s would continually go sharp equally.
Anyway just curious about your thoughts on guitars and string tension. Only if you have the time.
Do Gretsch's typically like the extra string tension of heavy sets? My Jazzmaster definitely does. It came with Fender 10s and at my first string change I went with 9s and immediately switched back. That said, this Gretsch came with 10s and my slightly arthritic hands said to try 9s and it helped with fretting with no perceived loss of playabilty on the songs we did. Both 10s and 9s would continually go sharp equally.
Anyway just curious about your thoughts on guitars and string tension. Only if you have the time.
Posted on 3/2/26 at 9:47 am to beauxgy
quote:
Don't know where to position the saddles to begin intonation after I set the truss rod and action
Make sure the string is in tune with strobe tuner, then gently fret it at 12th fret, if it is in perfect tune no adjustment. if it’s sharp saddle needs to move back and forward if it’s flat. Should be a straightforward process for guitars with individual saddles. 3 saddle Teles and the PRS wrap around bridge you usually have to split the difference on neigboring strings.
Also I highly recommend any guitarist who wants to do,their own setup maintenance purchase this tool kit from Wera. They are good quality much better than Music Nomad and will keep you from rounding out screws especially. $159 on Amazon
Posted on 3/2/26 at 10:06 am to SingleMalt1973
I always intonate to the 12th fret and then fine tune it to the 12th fret harmonic.
Posted on 3/2/26 at 4:03 pm to Mizz-SEC
I recently installed a Bigsby on my Les Paul jr.
I'm not playing it a lot but it is staying in tune.
The bridge situation was tricky, because most bridges used for that are right at 3 inches between the post centers (The Jr bridge posts are a little over 3 1/4"), so what I ended up doing was using this Wilkinson compensated wraparound bridge.
LINK
I didn't need the string holes anymore, so I drilled and tapped the 1st and 6th string holes for 1/8" standard thread bolts. Then I used a 1/4" X 3/16" x 3 3/4" piece of flat aluminum stock, I drilled untapped holes for the bolts to attach to the bridge then I drilled and tapped holes at the centers of the posts so I could lock the bridge against the posts after it was intonated. It can't move now.
I keep the strings lubricated at the bridge and nut with chapstick as Fretshack suggested. So far it has worked well.
If you look close at that bridge, it doesn't have any sharp saddles or pinch points and has a gradual path across the top of the bridge.
I still have some mods I want to make to the Bigsby ( shorter spring and handle spacer) after that I think I will play that guitar more.
Now this may not work for you exactly, because I am pretty sure your bridge posts will have 3" spacing, but Music City Bridge has adapter posts and plenty of other parts. There's more than 1 way to skin a cat.
I'm not playing it a lot but it is staying in tune.
The bridge situation was tricky, because most bridges used for that are right at 3 inches between the post centers (The Jr bridge posts are a little over 3 1/4"), so what I ended up doing was using this Wilkinson compensated wraparound bridge.
LINK
I didn't need the string holes anymore, so I drilled and tapped the 1st and 6th string holes for 1/8" standard thread bolts. Then I used a 1/4" X 3/16" x 3 3/4" piece of flat aluminum stock, I drilled untapped holes for the bolts to attach to the bridge then I drilled and tapped holes at the centers of the posts so I could lock the bridge against the posts after it was intonated. It can't move now.
I keep the strings lubricated at the bridge and nut with chapstick as Fretshack suggested. So far it has worked well.
If you look close at that bridge, it doesn't have any sharp saddles or pinch points and has a gradual path across the top of the bridge.
I still have some mods I want to make to the Bigsby ( shorter spring and handle spacer) after that I think I will play that guitar more.
Now this may not work for you exactly, because I am pretty sure your bridge posts will have 3" spacing, but Music City Bridge has adapter posts and plenty of other parts. There's more than 1 way to skin a cat.
This post was edited on 3/2/26 at 4:12 pm
Posted on 3/2/26 at 4:26 pm to TheFretShack
What file do you recommend to take the sharp edges off of the frets on a MIM telecaster?
Posted on 3/2/26 at 8:36 pm to SingleMalt1973
Thanks War Eagle & Single Malt.
Back to the drawing board. I'm sure I missed something along the way. Glad to have this Warlock to practice on
Back to the drawing board. I'm sure I missed something along the way. Glad to have this Warlock to practice on
Posted on 3/2/26 at 9:56 pm to TheFretShack
quote:
Our pickup company, Carondelet, has grown exponentially since it launched in 2020
The power of Sammy Pierre Duet!
Posted on 3/3/26 at 9:22 am to deeprig9
What file do you recommend to take the sharp edges off of the frets on a MIM telecaster?
You'll need a fret beveling file, a fret end dressing file, and about a dozen stepped grades of abrasives (I use Norton Black Ice automotive wet/dry sandpaper in dry form, followed by various grit micromesh pads).
You'll also need pawn shop and garage sale cheapos on which to get practice reps ... I cannot count how many botched DIY fret work tasks ended up on my bench so I could attempt to undue it. Two of three times, the DIY F-up required a total refret to correct. Absolutely no less than a $400-500 job in today's market when done by a good tech or luthier.
You will see me say this MANY times on this thread ... regardless of the intensity or ease of the task, DIYers should watch a TON of YouTube videos and look for common denominators, everything from techniques to tooling to even the adequacy of DIYers' workspaces.
You'll need a fret beveling file, a fret end dressing file, and about a dozen stepped grades of abrasives (I use Norton Black Ice automotive wet/dry sandpaper in dry form, followed by various grit micromesh pads).
You'll also need pawn shop and garage sale cheapos on which to get practice reps ... I cannot count how many botched DIY fret work tasks ended up on my bench so I could attempt to undue it. Two of three times, the DIY F-up required a total refret to correct. Absolutely no less than a $400-500 job in today's market when done by a good tech or luthier.
You will see me say this MANY times on this thread ... regardless of the intensity or ease of the task, DIYers should watch a TON of YouTube videos and look for common denominators, everything from techniques to tooling to even the adequacy of DIYers' workspaces.
Posted on 3/3/26 at 9:34 am to Mizz-SEC
One is a device called a String Butler which replaces the truss rod cover and acts as a roller string tree making sure each string is going straight into the nut slot.
Gimmicky overkill IMHO, a properly slotted and lubricated nut is the best fix.
A couple of other devices are out there meant to reduce the immense break angle of the Bigsby B50 vibrato. One hooks over the back bar (eliminating the hook string attachment rods) and essentially making it a string through. The other device (BiggsFixx) replaces and elevates the center bar thus reducing the massive amount of tension the B50 creates.
Based not on my experience with Bigsbys but instead with the OEM vibrato units on JMs and Jaguars ... fine tuning the break angle could definitely help alongside that roller bridge. Lube the rollers too!
- I'm also reading a wound G string set helps. Locking tuners, etc.
A wound G's outer wrap wire will create more friction than a plain G so stop reading that author's suggestions.
Locking tuners are great if you don't know how to properly string up or stretch them out in the first place. I recommend learning the latter and THEN investing in locking tuners if you are still having problems.
This is going to turn into a war of wills for me. I love the tone and playability of this guitar and am not going to take no for answer.
Roller bridge (with lubed rollers), decreased bridge break angle, properly cut and lubed nut, good quality tuners, properly strung, properly stretched out.
Use the Bigsby only for subtle vibrato as it was DESIGNED and INTENDED to be used, absolutely no dive bombs, yank ups or aggressive wiggle stickery that is best served by a Floyd or its equivalent.
And you will STILL have periodic tuning problems with a Bigsby. But all of the above will help tremendously!
Gimmicky overkill IMHO, a properly slotted and lubricated nut is the best fix.
A couple of other devices are out there meant to reduce the immense break angle of the Bigsby B50 vibrato. One hooks over the back bar (eliminating the hook string attachment rods) and essentially making it a string through. The other device (BiggsFixx) replaces and elevates the center bar thus reducing the massive amount of tension the B50 creates.
Based not on my experience with Bigsbys but instead with the OEM vibrato units on JMs and Jaguars ... fine tuning the break angle could definitely help alongside that roller bridge. Lube the rollers too!
- I'm also reading a wound G string set helps. Locking tuners, etc.
A wound G's outer wrap wire will create more friction than a plain G so stop reading that author's suggestions.
Locking tuners are great if you don't know how to properly string up or stretch them out in the first place. I recommend learning the latter and THEN investing in locking tuners if you are still having problems.
This is going to turn into a war of wills for me. I love the tone and playability of this guitar and am not going to take no for answer.
Roller bridge (with lubed rollers), decreased bridge break angle, properly cut and lubed nut, good quality tuners, properly strung, properly stretched out.
Use the Bigsby only for subtle vibrato as it was DESIGNED and INTENDED to be used, absolutely no dive bombs, yank ups or aggressive wiggle stickery that is best served by a Floyd or its equivalent.
And you will STILL have periodic tuning problems with a Bigsby. But all of the above will help tremendously!
Posted on 3/3/26 at 9:47 am to TheFretShack
quote:
Use the Bigsby only for subtle vibrato as it was DESIGNED and INTENDED to be used, absolutely no dive bombs, yank ups or aggressive wiggle stickery that is best served by a Floyd or its equivalent.
Damn key right here IMO.
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