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Started By
Message
cgrand! horticulturists! help me save my japanese maple
Posted on 1/14/26 at 7:17 pm
Posted on 1/14/26 at 7:17 pm
soooo Typical CAD-tastrophe i just wanted to fix the erosion around my japanese maple at the top of the hill behind my house. what could go wrong? just need a few pavers and maybe some construction adhesive to keep them together right?
After tearing down the existing nonsense i inherited i realized i needed a proper retaining wall and guessed at how many blocks i would need (actually this was more a physics question; i couldn't push the home depot cart with more than 26 25lb pavers and 10 bags of gravel...but i digress
so the final tally is 66 retaining wall blocks and 20 bags of gravel, 3 trips to home depot and 2 pair of gloves. you can see from this pic how far up the gravel is going; somewhere between 5 and 6 pavers high in the back. i think my drainage issue should be fine.
ok so nearly $400 later and i'm at the point where i need to decide what to do next. see below.
So my questions:
do i just fill the rest up with dirt to where the roots seem to meet the base of the tree? I am planning to continue adding soil as it settles to make sure all roots are now covered.
are there any concerns with the roots being exposed to the elements for this long? this poor tree has been in this shape for the 2 years we've lived here (2 0-degree winters) and it bounced back in the spring really well both times.
do i need to add anything like lime, miracle grow, etc?
am i doing it wrong?
is there anything else you can tell me that i should do to make sure my poor baby has a nice blanket this year and can grow uninpeded and strong?
3
Posted on 1/14/26 at 8:13 pm to CAD703X
quote:
do i just fill the rest up with dirt to where the roots seem to meet the base of the tree?
Yes, but not too high, not any higher than the base of the trunk root flare.
Nice job on the retaining wall.
Posted on 1/14/26 at 8:53 pm to CAD703X
yeah the wall looks fantastic
Those exposed roots are hardened off so the tree will be fine. Go ahead and infill up to about 6” below where roots all come together, water it to melt it in as you go. you’ll want to feed that tree in the spring
well done brah
Those exposed roots are hardened off so the tree will be fine. Go ahead and infill up to about 6” below where roots all come together, water it to melt it in as you go. you’ll want to feed that tree in the spring
well done brah
Posted on 1/14/26 at 8:59 pm to CrawDude
I wouldn't add soil, those exposed roots have hardened off so aren't capable of absorbing nutrients from the soil . The soil may actually promote rot of the roots. Better to add a natural mulch.
Posted on 1/14/26 at 9:14 pm to Zappas Stache
yeah maybe sand would be better, mixed with some mulch or peat
Posted on 1/15/26 at 8:07 am to Zappas Stache
quote:interesting and good point. I hadn't thought about the fact the tree had already adapted to some degree to the fact the roots were aboveground.
wouldn't add soil, those exposed roots have hardened off so aren't capable of absorbing nutrients from the soil . The soil may actually promote rot of the roots. Better to add a natural mulch.
So leave them exposed to some degree and just add a little finishing mulch and sand? No soil at all or should I add a little above the gravel line then cover with mulch?
Posted on 1/15/26 at 11:00 am to CAD703X
You can cover all the exposed roots with mulch just don't let the mulch touch the tree trunk at the root flare. The mulch will slowly decompose into a compost that will provide nutrients if there are parts of the roots that can still adsorb those nutrients. So as that much decomposes and settles , add a little more each year to keep the roots covered.
Posted on 1/15/26 at 11:02 am to CAD703X
Even consider removing the top row of stone to make the exposed roots a feature
Posted on 1/15/26 at 12:21 pm to luvdoc
quote:
Even consider removing the top row of stone to make the exposed roots a feature
I like dis idea me.
Posted on 1/15/26 at 1:21 pm to CAD703X
I had a similar issue with roots and like others stated, make it a feature. I used pea gravel and the silica stuff that keeps it in place, like a bonsai tree root bed. Get a dark gravel and the roots will pop.
Posted on 1/15/26 at 1:23 pm to luvdoc
quote:that sounds like a pita my arms are still sore from hauling them up the damn hill...
Even consider removing the top row of stone to make the exposed roots a feature
....having said all that in light of what others are saying i think you're right
ok FINE. i'll take it down.
This post was edited on 1/15/26 at 1:24 pm
Posted on 1/16/26 at 9:13 am to CAD703X
OK to add 1 to 2" open mulch like pine bark following advice about keeping flare clear. J maples prefer slightly acid pH, get a soil test. Those blocks will probably leach lime making soil alkaline... adjust as needed. Walls and walks trigger more joint and tendon problems than any other DIY task...age is a factor.
Posted on 1/16/26 at 9:30 am to Tree_Fall
quote:
OK to add 1 to 2" open mulch like pine bark following advice about keeping flare clear. J maples prefer slightly acid pH, get a soil test. Those blocks will probably leach lime making soil alkaline... adjust as needed. Walls and walks trigger more joint and tendon problems than any other DIY task...age is a factor.
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