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Landscaping and gardening in heavy clay soil
Posted on 10/30/24 at 2:13 pm
Posted on 10/30/24 at 2:13 pm
I purchased some blueberry bushes and fig trees to plant in the back yard, and quickly realized I needed dynamite or pickaxes to dig. Seems like I have 4 inches of topsoil and heavy hard as rock clay directly underneath.
Anyone have any experience or suggestions? I know I could dig a hole and plant as is, but they'll either die of root rot or be stunted. I think my options are to plant in a raised bed (maybe vego raised beds)? Was wondering if going crazy with a tiller and working in compost/topsoil would be any use?
Anyone have any experience or suggestions? I know I could dig a hole and plant as is, but they'll either die of root rot or be stunted. I think my options are to plant in a raised bed (maybe vego raised beds)? Was wondering if going crazy with a tiller and working in compost/topsoil would be any use?
9
Posted on 10/30/24 at 2:52 pm to Baers Foot
I’ve dealt with it in my yard.
You can either rototill and introduce sand/compost/worms or go raised bed.
I can show you pictures of patches of bare red clay that after 2 years of direct rain and sun don’t have weeds growing on them. It’s basically concrete.
You can either rototill and introduce sand/compost/worms or go raised bed.
I can show you pictures of patches of bare red clay that after 2 years of direct rain and sun don’t have weeds growing on them. It’s basically concrete.
Posted on 10/30/24 at 3:00 pm to Baers Foot
I’ve planted a bunch of trees recently in rock hard clay. I flag where I want to plant the tree then dump compost on that site. The compost is in an elevated mound above the topsoil. I’ll just let that sit as is until the weather is good for planting. Then I’ll dig my hole in the hard arse clay - wide but not deep. Then mix in the compost and soil. Since I’ve already added material to the site, the rootball is always higher than the natural grade. Gotta pick plants that don’t need extremely good drainage though.
Edit: I’ve planted both blueberries and figs like this and they are growing very well. I also use natural ridges and valleys of the yard. Plant on the ridges for the most part.
Edit: I’ve planted both blueberries and figs like this and they are growing very well. I also use natural ridges and valleys of the yard. Plant on the ridges for the most part.
This post was edited on 10/30/24 at 3:01 pm
Posted on 10/30/24 at 4:02 pm to AyyyBaw
quote:
I flag where I want to plant the tree then dump compost on that site. The compost is in an elevated mound above the topsoil.
Do you enclose the compost in some sort of raised bed to keep it from washing away?
Posted on 10/30/24 at 4:04 pm to tide06
I'm thinking maybe doing a combo of rototill, working the top 6 inches to a foot deep, tossing in some bags of sand/compost/etc, and making a slight mound like the other poster suggested..
Posted on 10/30/24 at 4:08 pm to Baers Foot
I usually make a square frame out of 2x6s and just let it weather away after several years
Posted on 10/30/24 at 5:27 pm to Baers Foot
Just plant the root ball a few inches above the soil line and dig wide but not deep (don't dig into the underlying hardpan, unless merely to break it up, then return it to the hole without amendment) so you don't create a bathtub.
You may need a little extra topsoil to cover the root ball. Top dress with mulch / compost, but mixing in too much amendment, even if only in the topsoil, can lead to self-restricted root spread.
You may need a little extra topsoil to cover the root ball. Top dress with mulch / compost, but mixing in too much amendment, even if only in the topsoil, can lead to self-restricted root spread.
Posted on 10/30/24 at 6:25 pm to Baers Foot
Nope, I don’t put borders. Just create a mound. If you do till, don’t till deep. Might seem good at first but deep tillage can have some negative outcomes with compaction long term.
Posted on 10/30/24 at 6:58 pm to Baers Foot
I have extremely terrible clay soil in areas of my yard due to the fact the original owner excavated the lot to level it out. Thus removing all the topsoil.
Some areas even weeds won't grow.
I dug up Abigail hole and planted crape myrtle.
They have not done well, despite extensive watering, etc.
Some areas even weeds won't grow.
I dug up Abigail hole and planted crape myrtle.
They have not done well, despite extensive watering, etc.
Posted on 10/31/24 at 5:05 am to Baers Foot
I have very heavy clay soil in my yard and have had great success with Loquat (Japanese Plum), tangerine and fig trees.
The fig was long established when I moved into this house in 92 and it's still going strong. I planted the Loquat and Tangerine trees and simply dug the holes a bit deeper than needed, added some composted material and planted them. They did great and I had excellent harvests until Katrina's floodwaters killed them and I never replanted.
Trees will find a path in the clay to send out their roots.
The fig was long established when I moved into this house in 92 and it's still going strong. I planted the Loquat and Tangerine trees and simply dug the holes a bit deeper than needed, added some composted material and planted them. They did great and I had excellent harvests until Katrina's floodwaters killed them and I never replanted.
Trees will find a path in the clay to send out their roots.
Posted on 10/31/24 at 9:04 am to luvdoc
quote:
return it to the hole without amendment) so you don't create a bathtub.
This all day. I made this mistake a few times and the plants drowned. You need to fill in with the clay or it will create a bucket a water that your plants will sit in.
Posted on 10/31/24 at 9:39 am to Baers Foot
Everyone has very good recommendations on planting in heavy clay soils, and I want further emphasize the importance of having the top of the rootball several + inches above lawn grade. You can use the topsoil from the excavated planting hole with some compost to cover the exposed top of the rootball sloped away towards lawn grade. Just use some type of mulch, I generally use pine straw, to around the elevated rootball to keep the covering soil in place.
You mentioned blueberries - they require acidic soil between pH 4.5-5.5 to thrive, you not likely have that acidity in heavy clay soils in S LA. The soil can be acidified with the use of elemental sulfur but it’s an on going process. Just keep that mind before you make a big investment in blueberry bushes. Some will create a raised bed, filled with sphagnum moss & compost, 50/50 ratio, for blueberries which can work has they are fairly shallow rooted.
You mentioned blueberries - they require acidic soil between pH 4.5-5.5 to thrive, you not likely have that acidity in heavy clay soils in S LA. The soil can be acidified with the use of elemental sulfur but it’s an on going process. Just keep that mind before you make a big investment in blueberry bushes. Some will create a raised bed, filled with sphagnum moss & compost, 50/50 ratio, for blueberries which can work has they are fairly shallow rooted.
Posted on 10/31/24 at 10:04 am to Baers Foot
My ground is red clay and chert. There is little to no top soil. I dig 2' or more deep with pickaxe and fill with peat/top soil mixture and add fertilizer. Landscaping in the hills. I also build above ground boxes for some plants.
Posted on 10/31/24 at 10:56 am to CrawDude
Thanks guys, I think I will loosen up the clay, but not fully replace with topsoil to avoid drowning the plants in a bowl. And then plant above lawn grade like y'all are recommending.
Thanks for tips on acidic soil for blueberries, will try and make a raised bed for those (only two) bushes. And do my fig trees as mentioned at beginning of this post.
Thanks y'all.
Thanks for tips on acidic soil for blueberries, will try and make a raised bed for those (only two) bushes. And do my fig trees as mentioned at beginning of this post.
Thanks y'all.
Posted on 10/31/24 at 12:07 pm to CrawDude
quote:pine straw and pine bark also help
Some will create a raised bed, filled with sphagnum moss & compost, 50/50 ratio, for blueberries which can work has they are fairly shallow rooted.
Posted on 10/31/24 at 12:18 pm to Baers Foot
Sometimes it's useful to do a simple soil drainage test.
LINK
I found that some parts of my clay yard drained quite quickly and made plantings in those areas.
LINK
I found that some parts of my clay yard drained quite quickly and made plantings in those areas.
Posted on 10/31/24 at 12:35 pm to Baers Foot
quote:
Thanks for tips on acidic soil for blueberries, will try and make a raised bed for those (only two) bushes.
Below in quotes is what the LSU AgCenter recommends based on research trials at the Hammond Research Station - ignore the fact it’s for containers - use the same planting mix for a raised bed if that’s what you prefer. I can’t post-link the entire article as it’s not published on-line. Also make sure you select 2 different cultivars of blueberries for cross pollination.
“ Plant the blueberry bushes individually in 15 gallon containers. Make sure the containers have several drainage holes to allow excess water to drain when you water. Fill the containers with a growing mix made up of one-half peat moss and one-half finely ground pine bark mulch (you may find this in bags labeled “soil conditioner”). It will be necessary to add fertilizer to provide the nutrients needed by the bushes. Per 15 gallon container, add and blend well with the peat-bark mix eight ounces of Osmocote 17-7-12 or 16-4-8 (or anything similar), two ounces of dolomitic lime and one ounce of trace elements (Micromax or other trace element fertilizers would be suitable, follow label directions). Each March, fertilize your container blueberry plants with eight ounces of a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote.”
Posted on 10/31/24 at 1:41 pm to Baers Foot
as long as you have good drainage or runoff, the figs will do fine in the clay. lowering the pH for blueberries is a long experiment. even with 90% elemental sulfur. id do those in 15 gal containers or raised beds with acidified soil.
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