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Started By
Message
re: Virginia buttonweed is taking over
Posted on 9/2/25 at 8:27 pm to Daponch
Posted on 9/2/25 at 8:27 pm to Daponch
Exactly my thoughts. Very minimal VBW this year. I think I spot sprayed 5 or 6 DW plants last year. My yard looks like someone hydro seeded it with DW this year.
This post was edited on 9/2/25 at 8:32 pm
1
Posted on 9/3/25 at 7:05 pm to Fraid Knot
Another vote for MSM.
1/8 th teaspoon per gallon of water. I add Dawn to each batch
Neighbors have it bad since most of them don’t do anything but watch it spread.
1/8 th teaspoon per gallon of water. I add Dawn to each batch
Neighbors have it bad since most of them don’t do anything but watch it spread.
Posted on 9/4/25 at 4:13 am to TDsngumbo
Did you use a surfactant? if so, you may have been a little heavy handed with it MSM has never damaged my bermuda I, always err on the side of not enough if i got to hit it twice so be it got some spots in backyard that are just recovering from too heavy on surfactant its been 3 months
Posted on 9/4/25 at 7:02 am to ole man
According to the chart posted here a while back:
There is no preemergent
MSM kills 70%
Celcisus kills it but takes 2 applications
Certainty kills 70%
Weed Free Zone kills all of it
There is no preemergent
MSM kills 70%
Celcisus kills it but takes 2 applications
Certainty kills 70%
Weed Free Zone kills all of it
This post was edited on 9/4/25 at 7:07 am
Posted on 9/4/25 at 10:34 am to SixthAndBarone
Again !!!
1/8 th teaspoon of MSM per gallon of water. Add Dawn
I spray twice. Around April 1st and May 1 st
NO BUTTON WEED !!!!!!!
1/8 th teaspoon of MSM per gallon of water. Add Dawn
I spray twice. Around April 1st and May 1 st
NO BUTTON WEED !!!!!!!
Posted on 9/4/25 at 12:37 pm to TDsngumbo
You can almost completely eradicate VBW if you stay on top of it. Not sure if this is scientifically correct, but made sense to me when I had a problem years ago.
I killed what was there with MSM Turf and pulled the dead stuff out by hand. I frequently walked my lawn looking for any new growth, usually before mowing, and pulled by hand. I did this to make sure I got it before it seeded and dropped new seeds to germinate at a later date. Every year, I saw less and less and now do not have any in my lawn except from what comes under the fence from my neighbor.
Difficult if you have a big yard, but it worked for me. VBW and Nutsedge was my two enemies..still battling Nutsedge 10 years later, but sedgehammer 2-3 times per year helps.
I killed what was there with MSM Turf and pulled the dead stuff out by hand. I frequently walked my lawn looking for any new growth, usually before mowing, and pulled by hand. I did this to make sure I got it before it seeded and dropped new seeds to germinate at a later date. Every year, I saw less and less and now do not have any in my lawn except from what comes under the fence from my neighbor.
Difficult if you have a big yard, but it worked for me. VBW and Nutsedge was my two enemies..still battling Nutsedge 10 years later, but sedgehammer 2-3 times per year helps.
Posted on 9/4/25 at 8:55 pm to Tifway419
The house I bought a few years ago had a mixture of three different kinds of grass in my front yard along with a ton of weeds. Long as I kept it cut, it didn’t look bad. Last year I had a massive break out of Virginia, button weed before I even knew what it was. It got so bad that it was choking up my lawn more every few steps. During the winter I decided to treat it, when I did over half my lawn was mud. So I decided to nuke my entire yard at the end of the winter and plant fresh grass.
I went with Zoysia Palisades. My neighbor is infested with it, he’s not doing anything with it. So every week I use Celsius in spot spray any new little sprigs I see coming up. Within a few days they’re going. I’ll probably be doing this as long as I’m alive, but it’s keeping it from growing at all, or should I say spreading at all.
I went with Zoysia Palisades. My neighbor is infested with it, he’s not doing anything with it. So every week I use Celsius in spot spray any new little sprigs I see coming up. Within a few days they’re going. I’ll probably be doing this as long as I’m alive, but it’s keeping it from growing at all, or should I say spreading at all.
Posted on 9/4/25 at 9:52 pm to Tiger55
Keep at it, it’s a battle worth fighting. I kind of miss pulling it, used to be so satisfying getting a clump in one piece.
Posted on 9/5/25 at 5:12 am to Tifway419
quote:
Nutsedge was my two enemies..still battling Nutsedge 10 years later,
I feel your pain on Nutsedge -- and it pops up in areas that aren't and/or don't stay wet. I don't get it.
MSM (and Celsius) have given me great results when battling VBW. As I noted in other recent posts, staying CONSISTENT with keeping any type of weed pressure down by walking your yard and catching things before they get out of control is key.
This post was edited on 9/5/25 at 5:13 am
Posted on 9/7/25 at 9:32 am to Ziggy
Is it too late to spot spray VBW now. Just noticed yesterday a lot of it popping up. If I spray MSM turf today, is there enough time for my grass to fill back in
Posted on 9/7/25 at 9:42 am to igotit
Spot spray it. I’d rather have a dead patch than VBW thriving and ready to re emerge next season. MSM Turf shouldn’t totally kill your grass.
Posted on 9/12/25 at 10:16 am to Tifway419
I’m debating whether to attack the patches in my yard now. From the curb, the yard looks nice and green, and I’d had to have big brown patches when I put the house up for sale, and Centipede is just so slow to heal and fill in.
My inclination is to leave it for the next shift (buyers).
My inclination is to leave it for the next shift (buyers).
Posted on 9/12/25 at 1:07 pm to TDsngumbo
I have had light to moderate spread of VBW in my Bermuda. MSM Turf smokes it, thought it sometimes takes two applications.. but I appreciate the cost effectiveness of that solution
Posted on 9/12/25 at 1:47 pm to Icansee4miles
If you’re about to put your house up for sale before next spring green up, yeah I’d just leave it. Green VBW is better than dirt.
Posted on 9/13/25 at 8:29 am to TDsngumbo
There are many good responses with diy approaches. My situation is that I pay a lawn service to spray 4 times a year a back yard that's St Aug and a front that's centipede being pushed out by St Aug. They apply a pre-emerg, a post-emerge and two fertilizer. Like many people, VBW is going crazy right now. Does anybody know how services try to address problems like VBW. I feel like I'm not getting my money's worth.
Posted on 9/15/25 at 10:30 am to TDsngumbo
IIRC VB is easier to kill in the Spring. I use MSM and it gets rid of them
Posted on 9/16/25 at 9:47 pm to Tree_Fall
I have my yard sprayed as well from a company. Whatever they spray is junk. I have at least 4 different types of weeds in my yard after multiple applications from them for the last two years. As for the VBW. I’ve started pulling it by hand and bagging my cuts instead of mulching. It’s a big difference. Far less spreading opportunity and the VBW is easier to see when the yard is cut low and easier to pull up. Less chemicals will also keep it at bay if the clumps are small and new.
Posted on 9/17/25 at 11:36 am to BengalBlood81
Real talk
Recognition herbicide
Expensive but works fantastic on VBW in st Aug. - no chlorosis to grass and more tolerance of temperature
Will be purple and dead in 10
Days.
0.045oz /gal spot spray
Recognition herbicide
Expensive but works fantastic on VBW in st Aug. - no chlorosis to grass and more tolerance of temperature
Will be purple and dead in 10
Days.
0.045oz /gal spot spray
Posted on 9/17/25 at 1:19 pm to DickTater
quote:
Recognition herbicide
Phenomenal stuff. I haven’t seen VBW or sedges anywhere I’ve sprayed all summer. Expensive, yes. But worth it for me.
https://secure.caes.uga.edu/extension/publications/files/pdf/B%201397_3.PDF
quote:
Sulfonylurea herbicides are widely used in turf for controlling cool-season grasses, broadleaf weeds and sedges. Sulfonylureas inhibit branch-chain amino acid synthesis and are popular herbicides for postemergence weed control in warm-season grasses. Chlorsufluron (Corsair), metsulfuron (Manor, others) and trifloxysulfuron (Monument) are sulfonylureas for use in Southern lawns with activity on Virginia buttonweed (Table 2). Efficacy of these herbicides is generally greater under warm temperatures in summer, compared to spring, and repeat applications are often necessary for controlling Virginia buttonweed.
Trifloxysulfuron is the most effective sulfonylurea for Virginia buttonweed and may be safely applied to bermudagrass and zoysiagrass. Trifloxysulfuron treatments may provide good control (80 to 89%) of Virginia buttonweed and repeat applications have potential to provide complete control.
Posted on 9/25/25 at 2:26 pm to TDsngumbo
Spot treat with speedzone southern in early spring and fall. Preemergent in February and late sept. I’ve also seen MSMA kill it but I use MSMA for non Bermuda grass in my Bermuda lawn.
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