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Kauai Trip Review (Kalalau Trail Incl.)
Posted on 10/15/21 at 4:30 pm
Posted on 10/15/21 at 4:30 pm
Hey everyone. It's been a few months since we actually went on the trip, but I figured I would go ahead and post it. My fiancée and I went to Kauai June 10-19. This was my 2nd time to visit Kauai (first time was 2018). I took a lot of notes on my last visit and wanted to knock out some things I missed the first time (Kalalau Trail/Beach, Hanalei Bay, etc). Anyways, the trip was really split into 3 parts: Grand Hyatt in Poipu, Kalalau Trail, and VRBO condo near Hanalei Bay.
We flew IAH -> PHX -> LIH . No real issues there. We did have to do a covid test <72 hr from departure despite being vaccinated, but whatever - it wasn't too much hassle. When we landed, we went to pick up the jeep. I rented one on my first visit and it was definitely something I wanted to do again. I really enjoy being able to drop the top and ride around with the open air. Unfortunately, this time Avis had a ton of Jeep Gladiators but nothing else with a soft top
I wanted to hit some of the 4x4 trails in Waimea Canyon but didn't really feel super comfortable in this huge bulky truck with street tires. The time before I had a 2 door and dipped my toes in some of the trails, but they still intimidated me to go too far (steep, can be super muddy or rocky, narrow with a cliff edge in places - you have to back into the brush if you encounter someone head-on, etc). We still had fun cruising around the paved roads in Waimea Canyon
Anyways, our initial stay was 3 nights at the Grand Hyatt in Poipu:
I stayed at this hotel the first time and I really enjoyed it. It is pretty resorty so I didn't want to stay here the whole time, but the restaurants are nice, they have direct access to Shipwreck's Beach.
It was a good stay again, although the staff did give us some issues. It seemed to be a common issue at the front desk, but I think either A) the staff are so handcuffed by corporate/leadership to make accommodations or B) they really just don't give a damn. Lots of people were frustrated. Example: I was supposed to have club access with my reservation. Front desk told me "sorry, it's not on the reservation. Maybe call customer service." Customer service tried to tell me it was definitely on there but it just must not be open yet. They kept giving me the run around and I eventually I had to just go back and give my phone to the front desk and tell them to sort it out. The club access was clutch though because you can get solid breakfasts there that you would otherwise be paying $30 / person for. Another example is when they told me they would hold our bags for us while we hiked the Kalalau Trail and then then night before we're set out to get up early and hike they tell me under no circumstances could they do that. Everything I've read (and even they told me our jeep would likely have a knife taken to the soft top if we left our bags in the car) is that you are not to leave anything in open sight in the vehicle and that it's better to just leave it unlocked when parked at the trailhead. I was pissed and they ultimately just told me to deal with it. I was getting ready to either just leave the bags in the room and hope they wouldn't throw them away or wrap them in trash bags hide them under some brush off some backroad. Luckily, there's a baggage service in Kauai that was able to take them. It's just a lady with a van who drives around and collects them, but she answered at nearly 10 pm and agreed to meet me at 5:30 am in the morning. Anyway, I would stay here again, I just wish they would try a little harder to make the guests happy. All of the restaurants were already reserved by the time I checked a week or 2 before so we unfortunately weren't able to dine-in on any of the Hyatt's restaurants due to their 50% capacities and other restrictions. I ate Tidepools and Stevenson's Library on my first trip and they're both phenomenal. Stevenson's has some of the best sushi and sashimi I've ever had. One of the only places I've had fresh wasabi made from actual root too. We did order to-go off their reduced menu one night:
We also were able to snag a spot at the Kauai Beach House which had a really cool environment. The restaurant and bar were open air and overlooking a pretty cool lawn hangout spot:
The food was pretty decent here also. We ate around 9 pm as they were a little over an hour behind, but had a really good time overall.
We flew IAH -> PHX -> LIH . No real issues there. We did have to do a covid test <72 hr from departure despite being vaccinated, but whatever - it wasn't too much hassle. When we landed, we went to pick up the jeep. I rented one on my first visit and it was definitely something I wanted to do again. I really enjoy being able to drop the top and ride around with the open air. Unfortunately, this time Avis had a ton of Jeep Gladiators but nothing else with a soft top
I wanted to hit some of the 4x4 trails in Waimea Canyon but didn't really feel super comfortable in this huge bulky truck with street tires. The time before I had a 2 door and dipped my toes in some of the trails, but they still intimidated me to go too far (steep, can be super muddy or rocky, narrow with a cliff edge in places - you have to back into the brush if you encounter someone head-on, etc). We still had fun cruising around the paved roads in Waimea Canyon
Anyways, our initial stay was 3 nights at the Grand Hyatt in Poipu:
I stayed at this hotel the first time and I really enjoyed it. It is pretty resorty so I didn't want to stay here the whole time, but the restaurants are nice, they have direct access to Shipwreck's Beach.
It was a good stay again, although the staff did give us some issues. It seemed to be a common issue at the front desk, but I think either A) the staff are so handcuffed by corporate/leadership to make accommodations or B) they really just don't give a damn. Lots of people were frustrated. Example: I was supposed to have club access with my reservation. Front desk told me "sorry, it's not on the reservation. Maybe call customer service." Customer service tried to tell me it was definitely on there but it just must not be open yet. They kept giving me the run around and I eventually I had to just go back and give my phone to the front desk and tell them to sort it out. The club access was clutch though because you can get solid breakfasts there that you would otherwise be paying $30 / person for. Another example is when they told me they would hold our bags for us while we hiked the Kalalau Trail and then then night before we're set out to get up early and hike they tell me under no circumstances could they do that. Everything I've read (and even they told me our jeep would likely have a knife taken to the soft top if we left our bags in the car) is that you are not to leave anything in open sight in the vehicle and that it's better to just leave it unlocked when parked at the trailhead. I was pissed and they ultimately just told me to deal with it. I was getting ready to either just leave the bags in the room and hope they wouldn't throw them away or wrap them in trash bags hide them under some brush off some backroad. Luckily, there's a baggage service in Kauai that was able to take them. It's just a lady with a van who drives around and collects them, but she answered at nearly 10 pm and agreed to meet me at 5:30 am in the morning. Anyway, I would stay here again, I just wish they would try a little harder to make the guests happy. All of the restaurants were already reserved by the time I checked a week or 2 before so we unfortunately weren't able to dine-in on any of the Hyatt's restaurants due to their 50% capacities and other restrictions. I ate Tidepools and Stevenson's Library on my first trip and they're both phenomenal. Stevenson's has some of the best sushi and sashimi I've ever had. One of the only places I've had fresh wasabi made from actual root too. We did order to-go off their reduced menu one night:
We also were able to snag a spot at the Kauai Beach House which had a really cool environment. The restaurant and bar were open air and overlooking a pretty cool lawn hangout spot:
The food was pretty decent here also. We ate around 9 pm as they were a little over an hour behind, but had a really good time overall.
This post was edited on 10/15/21 at 5:19 pm
Posted on 10/15/21 at 4:30 pm to LSUsuperfresh
Now for the highlight of the trip. On my first visit, I made friends with a few locals and when I asked about trails to hike, they told me about the Kalalau Trail. Unfortunately, you have to get a permit 90 days in advance so I was committed to doing this on my 2nd trip. They release the permits 90 days out at midnight Hawaii time. The website functions like a makeshift lottery system. It gets absolutely bricked at 5 am CST while everyone tries to scramble to get permits. The website can only process one application at a time so you have to just keep refreshing until either A) they run out of available permits (there's usually 30 or so to start each day) or B) you actually get through. My fiancee and I divided and conquered each morning with both our laptops. It ended up taking us 4 days/attempts. On the attempt we actually got through, I was out until 3 am on a bachelor party, woke up at 4:45am and then had to catch a plane later that morning
. You definitely need to be flexible with the days you hike, because you may not be able to get the days you want. You can also access the date range earlier (e.g. we wanted to hike June 14-16, but I actually booked June 13-16 and just showed up a day late). I can explain this further if there are any questions, but we did feel extremely lucky to get permits. There are people who hike without permits, but there are sometimes rangers who will check (we got checked once) and I'm told if you're caught without one, it's a $500 fine with a mandatory court appearance.
Anyways, I had a 65L backpack that weighed about 40 lbs. I would definitely pack a little less if I had to do it over again. The trail is up and down the entire 11.5 miles with very little flat terrain. Some of it is dirt/mud, some of it is loose gravel, some of it is boulders. The fiancee had a few mental breakdowns and I ended up carrying her 25 lb backpack on my front for the last 2 miles
. We were only able to hike it at a 1 mph pace and it took us 11 hours total (07:00 - 18:00). I was worried we weren't going to make it before dark at times. I'll get on to the pictures. We did scout out the Kalalau Coast with an open-door helicopter tour with Jack Harter's:
The trail itself:
The trail isn't for the faint of heart. A lot of it is along sloped, 2' wide, cliff's ledge with the ocean below. The foliage also overtakes a lot of it so expect your shins to get scratched.
We finally set up camp at Kalalau Beach:
The view looking out from our tent site:
Looking in at our tents from the beach:
My fiancee and I:
One word of caution is to be sure to carefully plan your food. We quickly grabbed 3 dehydrated meals per day from the Kauai Walmart (3 days total, 2 nights camping), but failed to realize the servings were only like 250 calories. On the final day, I had to hike out on roughly 1000 calories and I'm a 6'4" 215 lb dude. I was starving. I foraged the night before - we did manage to collect a nice papaya, some kikui nuts, and there was a large patch of cherry tomatoes growing. Someone left some garlic and seasoning on the "free table" and we boiled the tomatoes and garlic, mashed them up, seasoned, and ate somewhat of a puree for extra calories. I contemplated bashing some doves with a rock and roasting them but was afraid the hippies would have lynched me.
You don't have to worry about water too much. We had a sawyer bottle which worked great and a 2.5 L camel back and 1L nalgene to refill on the streams that occur every 3 miles or so. There's a nice waterfall (you can see off to the right in a picture above) that you can get water from and shower in once you reach the beach.
Anyways, I had a 65L backpack that weighed about 40 lbs. I would definitely pack a little less if I had to do it over again. The trail is up and down the entire 11.5 miles with very little flat terrain. Some of it is dirt/mud, some of it is loose gravel, some of it is boulders. The fiancee had a few mental breakdowns and I ended up carrying her 25 lb backpack on my front for the last 2 miles
The trail itself:
The trail isn't for the faint of heart. A lot of it is along sloped, 2' wide, cliff's ledge with the ocean below. The foliage also overtakes a lot of it so expect your shins to get scratched.
We finally set up camp at Kalalau Beach:
The view looking out from our tent site:
Looking in at our tents from the beach:
My fiancee and I:
One word of caution is to be sure to carefully plan your food. We quickly grabbed 3 dehydrated meals per day from the Kauai Walmart (3 days total, 2 nights camping), but failed to realize the servings were only like 250 calories. On the final day, I had to hike out on roughly 1000 calories and I'm a 6'4" 215 lb dude. I was starving. I foraged the night before - we did manage to collect a nice papaya, some kikui nuts, and there was a large patch of cherry tomatoes growing. Someone left some garlic and seasoning on the "free table" and we boiled the tomatoes and garlic, mashed them up, seasoned, and ate somewhat of a puree for extra calories. I contemplated bashing some doves with a rock and roasting them but was afraid the hippies would have lynched me.
You don't have to worry about water too much. We had a sawyer bottle which worked great and a 2.5 L camel back and 1L nalgene to refill on the streams that occur every 3 miles or so. There's a nice waterfall (you can see off to the right in a picture above) that you can get water from and shower in once you reach the beach.
This post was edited on 10/15/21 at 5:05 pm
Posted on 10/15/21 at 4:30 pm to LSUsuperfresh
The last portion of our stay was in a condo near Hanalei Bay. It didn't have air conditioning but had open-air ventilation that you could manipulate. It got pretty hot during the day but we were able to get it down to 75F or so at night. We were right next to access to Hideaway Beach which ended up being a gem. We packed up a cooler (fresh pineapple, seltzers, beers, chocolate, chips, etc.) and headed down:
The back lawn and patio of the condo was also a great place to hangout and watch the sunset:
Unfortunately, near the end of the trip we found out my fiancee's grandpa had passed away. So we set up a tribute to him in typical Kauai fashion on one of the more secret cliffs that we found:
Maybe TMI, but thought I'd share. Rest in peace, Jack.
I hope you guys enjoy the review and I'd be more than happy to answer any questions you may have or share more pictures if you'd like to see more.
Thanks for reading!
The back lawn and patio of the condo was also a great place to hangout and watch the sunset:
Unfortunately, near the end of the trip we found out my fiancee's grandpa had passed away. So we set up a tribute to him in typical Kauai fashion on one of the more secret cliffs that we found:
Maybe TMI, but thought I'd share. Rest in peace, Jack.
I hope you guys enjoy the review and I'd be more than happy to answer any questions you may have or share more pictures if you'd like to see more.
Thanks for reading!
This post was edited on 10/15/21 at 5:15 pm
Posted on 10/15/21 at 5:11 pm to LSUsuperfresh
Nice adventure. Thanks for sharing.
Posted on 10/15/21 at 7:24 pm to LSUsuperfresh
Thanks for sharing!
Did you guys hike up to the waterfalls? We hiked up to the waterfalls from the start and back, and I contemplated throwing my body off of the ridge on the way back
It was absolutely gorgeous though.
Did you guys hike up to the waterfalls? We hiked up to the waterfalls from the start and back, and I contemplated throwing my body off of the ridge on the way back
It was absolutely gorgeous though.
Posted on 10/15/21 at 8:35 pm to LSUsuperfresh
Nice review, glad you enjoyed the trip! That trail looks awesome with fantastic views and worth the effort. I can barely hike with a few extra pounds in my backpack, can't imagine the additional 20 lbs of luggage to carry for those last few miles 
Posted on 10/15/21 at 9:24 pm to Epic Cajun
quote:
Did you guys hike up to the waterfalls? We hiked up to the waterfalls from the start and back, and I contemplated throwing my body off of the ridge on the way back
Unfortunately, we didn't hike into the valley on our full day at Kalalau. If we could do it again, we'd probably camp for 3 nights. We needed a rest day though. I pretty much just lounged around in the hammock and explored the caves. But I could barely walk that day and was worried about making it back out. I've never hiked with an overnight pack before and never done anything that strenuous, so I didn't push myself more than I had to.
Posted on 10/15/21 at 9:32 pm to CuseTiger
quote:
I can barely hike with a few extra pounds in my backpack, can't imagine the additional 20 lbs of luggage to carry for those last few miles
My fiancée was really struggling at that point and going that slow was tortuous for me when I just wanted to get there so I was more than happy to play the pack mule. She broke down after mile 9 because she was expecting the next mile marker we'd see to be #10. I kept trying to explain that we had been hiking at 1 mph all day and there was no way we had doubled our speed for that mile, but she wasn't having it
Posted on 10/16/21 at 3:06 pm to LSUsuperfresh
Your experience hiking the trail was similar to mine when I hiked it with my nephew in 2015. It's a long day of hiking with 40 pounds on your back. For anyone who's never hiked it, that extra weight combines with the fact that you are constantly going up or down (almost never level) and with the fact that the trail normally has many muddy portions where you can slip. My right leg started cramping about mile 7, and that made Crawler's Ledge a little scary, as I couldn't trust the muscles in that leg to work properly.
Like y'all, we just camped for two nights and wished we'd been there for another one. I spent most of that rest day in the tent, and I would have liked to explore the Kalalau Valley a little.
Edited to add: it's such an awesome hike, and absolutely worth the effort.
Like y'all, we just camped for two nights and wished we'd been there for another one. I spent most of that rest day in the tent, and I would have liked to explore the Kalalau Valley a little.
Edited to add: it's such an awesome hike, and absolutely worth the effort.
This post was edited on 10/16/21 at 4:01 pm
Posted on 10/18/21 at 10:58 pm to LSUsuperfresh
Thanks for the review. Really enjoyed it.
That’s my next island I want to visit. My cousins live on the big island and Oahu on the north shore.
That’s my next island I want to visit. My cousins live on the big island and Oahu on the north shore.
Posted on 10/19/21 at 10:14 am to LSUsuperfresh
I stayed on Kauai (Princeville) for a 5 week stint earlier this year. The Kalalau Trail is unfathomably cool but really the only reason worth going to Kauai IMO.
This post was edited on 10/19/21 at 10:15 am
Posted on 10/19/21 at 11:51 am to LSUsuperfresh
How would you guys rate the islands? Best to worst
Posted on 10/19/21 at 7:16 pm to CP3LSU25
quote:
How would you guys rate the islands? Best to worst
Unless I come into a bunch of free time, I'm not sure I'll go to any of the ones other than Kauai. It's got everything I need and is one of my favorite places on Earth.
Posted on 10/20/21 at 7:48 am to Louie T
quote:
The Kalalau Trail is unfathomably cool but really the only reason worth going to Kauai IMO.
I'd have to hard disagree. Are you more of a developed island type?
I haven't been to the other islands but I thought there was plenty besides Kalalau to do.
Posted on 10/20/21 at 8:08 am to Louie T
quote:Waimea Canyon? I thought that was really breathtaking, too.
The Kalalau Trail is unfathomably cool but really the only reason worth going to Kauai IMO.
Posted on 10/20/21 at 8:12 am to CP3LSU25
quote:I've only been to 2 islands (Oahu and Kauai), and they are pretty drastically different. Kauai only has ~50k people on the island, and is mostly rural. Oahu has a lot more of the creature comforts that you would be used to on the mainland. I actually preferred Oahu, but the parts away from Honolulu/Waikiki. We spent most of our time in Kailua, it's hard to beat Lanikai beach, IMO.
How would you guys rate the islands? Best to worst
Posted on 10/20/21 at 12:38 pm to LSUsuperfresh
that foodland in princeville has the best poke. and they had something called korean fried chicken that was delicious too.
Posted on 10/20/21 at 7:01 pm to Bunsbert Montcroff
quote:
that foodland in princeville has the best poke. and they had something called korean fried chicken that was delicious too.
I went to Hanalei Poke in that beat up strip mall. The strip mall lost power while I was there in a moderate to light rainstorm.
It's quite fascinating how a lot of Hawaii is like SE Asia infrastructure wise than it is US.
This post was edited on 10/20/21 at 7:02 pm
Posted on 10/21/21 at 8:23 am to Bunsbert Montcroff
quote:
that foodland in princeville has the best poke.
The Koloa fish market used to have awesome poke but I was told that it's not as good since they moved locations. There used to be a line out the door and around the block.
I've always thought Ishihara Market in Waimea had good poke and we really liked The Fish Express in Lihue this time
Posted on 10/21/21 at 2:57 pm to LSUsuperfresh
Did y’all get to go to Java Kai for breakfast any? That place is awesome!
There’s also a chocolate farm almost to Hanalei Bay that has a beautiful 4 mile trail around it, my wife and I ran it.
Kauai is one of our top destinations we’ve visited, will definitely be going back.
There’s also a chocolate farm almost to Hanalei Bay that has a beautiful 4 mile trail around it, my wife and I ran it.
Kauai is one of our top destinations we’ve visited, will definitely be going back.
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