- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Winter Olympics
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Restoring endgrain butcher block
Posted on 6/22/25 at 10:23 am
Posted on 6/22/25 at 10:23 am
I recently got a older boos block table. Im sanding it preparing it for stain and seal.
What grit would you sand it to? 320? 400?
What grit would you sand it to? 320? 400?
6
Posted on 6/22/25 at 10:31 am to LordSnow
Since its end grain I’d probably look to see how it looks at 220 and got to 320 only if needed.
Posted on 6/22/25 at 10:36 am to LordSnow
Are you going to use as intended or is it going to just become something of a conversation piece in your kitchen?
If it were mine, I'd plan on using it. I'd not use a stain or any poly type finish. I'd just use a food-safe mineral oil and not get into fine sanding since it will get its share of dings, knife marks etc. when in use.
If it were mine, I'd plan on using it. I'd not use a stain or any poly type finish. I'd just use a food-safe mineral oil and not get into fine sanding since it will get its share of dings, knife marks etc. when in use.
Posted on 6/22/25 at 10:41 am to gumbo2176
quote:
I'd not use a stain or any poly type finish.
I missed this when I read the post the 1st time. Yeah, don’t stain. Just butcher block oil/mineral oil like gumbo said
This post was edited on 6/22/25 at 10:42 am
Posted on 6/22/25 at 6:27 pm to gumbo2176
I'd go to 320 on end grain. For cutting boards and the like, I use Walrus oil 3-5 coats and then finish with Walrus oil wax and buff.
If i had a big drum sander, I'd run a new end grain board through that as you dont want to put an end grain board through a planer. But for touching up, a random orbital will do great.
If i had a big drum sander, I'd run a new end grain board through that as you dont want to put an end grain board through a planer. But for touching up, a random orbital will do great.
This post was edited on 6/22/25 at 6:29 pm
Posted on 6/22/25 at 8:28 pm to bbvdd
quote:
I’d probably look to see how it looks at 220 and got to 320 only if needed.
At that point you are no longer sanding, you are burnishing.
Posted on 6/22/25 at 8:29 pm to El Segundo Guy
I don't have anything near a drum sander or planer. This thing is huge too
Posted on 6/22/25 at 8:53 pm to LordSnow
400 and then tung oil.
I love tung oil!
I love tung oil!
Posted on 6/22/25 at 10:03 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Tung oil is always good. Sometimes I use pure tung but I use Waterlox (resin modified) tung oil finish if I dont want to wait a month cure time. Things like shop jigs sometimes. But pure tung is good.
I make my own shellac from lac bug secretions mixed at a 1.5 lb cut to denatured alcohol. Then i thin that with some.mineral spirits if I want to wipe it on.
I make my own shellac from lac bug secretions mixed at a 1.5 lb cut to denatured alcohol. Then i thin that with some.mineral spirits if I want to wipe it on.
Posted on 6/23/25 at 9:37 am to El Segundo Guy
I got to thinking about it, I enjoy the rabbit hole of finishes almost as much as woodworking itself.
In addition to making my own shellac, I have Rubio Monocoat, Osmo hard wax oil, spray lacquer, Ar.-R-Seal, Waterlox, tung oil, mineral oil, Tried & True Danish Oil, and Odie's Oil all on hand.
And my favorite wax--Renaissance Wax. I also use Boeling Alley wax, but only on cast iron tool surfaces (along with Boeshield T9).
Anand I use Bloxytene or whatever it's called to keep the finishes fresher.
In addition to making my own shellac, I have Rubio Monocoat, Osmo hard wax oil, spray lacquer, Ar.-R-Seal, Waterlox, tung oil, mineral oil, Tried & True Danish Oil, and Odie's Oil all on hand.
And my favorite wax--Renaissance Wax. I also use Boeling Alley wax, but only on cast iron tool surfaces (along with Boeshield T9).
Anand I use Bloxytene or whatever it's called to keep the finishes fresher.
This post was edited on 6/23/25 at 9:43 am
Posted on 6/23/25 at 10:14 am to LordSnow
220 to the touch is plenty good enough. With end grain, I doubt you the finer and finer grits will do much.
Posted on 6/24/25 at 8:40 am to LordSnow
My parents gave my wife and I a butchers block when we got married back almost 40 years ago. It was in the middle of our kitchen all our lives. Since we moved south, we have islands so we didnt have a place to put it. I was going to get rid of it but at the last second, I decided to put it in my outdoor kitchen, didnt think I had room, under my lanai.
It had been sitting for about 3 years in the garage and needed restoring so I followed this guy and it came out great. Salt scrub, a little sanding and lots of oil.
I keep it covered when I'm not using it
It had been sitting for about 3 years in the garage and needed restoring so I followed this guy and it came out great. Salt scrub, a little sanding and lots of oil.
I keep it covered when I'm not using it
Posted on 6/24/25 at 1:17 pm to LordSnow
quote:
preparing it for stain and seal.
I have a Boos butcher block table and the only thing i put on it is mineral oil. Stain and seal will make it unsafe as a food prep surface.
Posted on 6/24/25 at 1:19 pm to LordSnow
quote:
This thing is huge too
That's the exact same table we have. That is end grain rock maple. mineral oil only.
Posted on 6/24/25 at 1:55 pm to TBoy
Watco butcher block stain and oil says its a food safe surface. This post was edited on 6/24/25 at 1:57 pm
Posted on 6/24/25 at 2:16 pm to TBoy
Tung oil!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted on 6/24/25 at 3:20 pm to LordSnow
Boos sells its own oil compound that is basically mineral oil and a bit of wax. That might meet you in the middle.
Page 1 of 1
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News